Artistic and stylistic features of modern brooches

Научная новизна. Систематизированы виды брошей по различным классификационным группам. Обобщена информация о существующих видах брошей и охарактеризованы особенности их проектирования и изготовления из различных видов материалов.

Практическая значимость. Сформировано информационную базу различных видов брошей, охарактеризованы основные и специфические черты изготовления украшений в виде брошей. Раскрыты современные аспекты их применения в контексте отделки «костюма». Проиллюстрировано основные этапы изготовления броши и изготовлено украшение в виде птицы, соответствующее тенденциям моды. Ключевые слова: украшения, драгоценные металлы, бисер, стеклярус, эмаль, мозаика.

Introduction

brooch decoration hand-made

In the current conditions, the use of accessories stimulates the development of fashion and design; that is why it is quite important to study the prerequisites, history, materials, factors and areas of development of accessories design. At the same time, it is necessary to summarize the key tools, ways and methods of use of design-projection of accessories in the modern fashion, taking into account the modern styles and trends of the fashion development.

The way from the selected image of the future product to its manufacture should go through the complex system of information synthesis. First of all, the characteristic features of the way of using certain accessories are determined, which provides for the analysis of the costume, the features of the consumer's figure and the type of the appearance. All this results in the systematic approach to the process of artistic design, based on the principles of harmonious shaping of accessories and adornments in the system of "costume". Therefore, the focus should be on combination and correlation of accessories, adornments and costume in general.

Analysis of previous researches. The dynamic development of modern fashion stimulates the development of various accessories. The main trends in the accessories in the autumn 2019 are bright colors, unusual color combinations, transparent details, shapes of the materials of the future, gold and silver glitter. Moreover, sometimes the preference is given to the form even at the expense of functionality [1].

On the world catwalks the designers pay special attention to the brooches, use a variety of unusual materials to create them, and offer different styles, new designs and shapes.

Modern masters do not just create adornments, they try to brought to the light the hidden possibilities of the material that can express the author's idea by its color, shape and drawing. This explains the desire to combine seemingly incompatible materials: precious stones, wood, rubber, base and precious metals, ceramics, fabric, leather, etc. [2].

The historical aspects of the creation and the development of brooches are considered in the works of D.M. Veretennyk, I.O. Zhukova [3] and O.M. Vorontsova [4], where the first types of brooches, the methods of their wearing, as well as the features of manufacturing technology, the methods of fixation and the materials used are described. O.M. Vorontsova also analyzes modern adornments, the ways of their wearing and the features of their use.

The concept, the functions and the features of the accessories in the context of the modern consumer society are considered by V.A. Skoryk [5]. The author reveals the interconnection of the components of youth subcultures, which is important for social communication, analyzes the metaphorical meaning of the costume that provides nonverbal information and is an example of modern fetishism.

The features of the use of Ukrainian ornamentation in the modern jewelries, including the use of design-projection of brooches based on the works of the authors, are considered in the papers [6, 7]. The design-projection of the adornments, inter alia, very often provides for the use of natural stones. The possibility of the use of such kind of material in various accessories is substantiated in the article of S.B. Oleksiychuk [8].

Statement of the problem. In our times, more and more attention is paid to accessories than it was a few years ago, so the fashion for accessories has appeared.

Several accessories can change the look of the garment and allow it to be used in several variants: for example, to turn romantic style into the extravagant one, or to make a business suit look like an evening suit.

A specific feature of the modern design is a conceptual diversity of products due to the different systems of values, traditions, ethnic characteristics, etc., and, as a result, different aesthetic needs of different social groups. The study of the evolution of form, color combinations, artistic and compositional features, the structure of the product decoration, in particular accessories, contributes to the expansion and updating of the range of modern artistic and aesthetic products, and to the achievement of imaginative expression of the costume. Decorative finishing, which takes into account modern technologies and materials, changes the properties of the whole costume significantly, and thus influences the formation of the image, focusing on the needs of the consumer. That is why the purpose of this work is to analyze the artistic and compositional features of the modern women's accessories, in particular brooches; to systematize the variety of brooches into different classification groups.

The results of the research

Fashion accessories are innumerable fashion little things that, however, characterize the style of clothing of a certain era just like the silhouette and the color. Looking back at the history of fashion, you can see that a lot of items that are now common from a practical point of view, were mandatory and expensive accessories at some time, without which it was impossible to appear among people. It is hard to tell the history of the accessories because of their variety. For example, from the 12^th to the 17^th century a lady was required to have a hand-held mirror and a bag-mirror; it was worn on the neck, on the gold chains or on a belt; it was framed with ivory, turtle shell, gilded with silver with engraving. Only with the invention of the method of obtainment of mirror glass, when a large number of wall mirrors appeared, small mirrors, to some extent, went out of fashion. That was also applicable to flacons, vessels for perfumes and smelling salts, tooth picks, watches and strainers, which at that time complemented the picture of fashion. Both clothes and adornments have a propensity for changes in fashion, and the materials change as well. The public display of adornments is also dictated by fashion; for example, in the Renaissance and Baroque eras not only women but also men competed in this one before the other [9].

A brooch is one of the most ancient adornments; its history is almost equal to the history of mankind. For the first time, the brooch analogue is found in the Bronze Age, more than 5 thousand years ago. At that time the brooch had a slightly different design and was called a fibula. Most often it was a round or oval metal product with two openings through which a thick pin passed, which fastened the brooch to the fabric. In the Bronze Age, the fibulae were common in Scandinavia, Hungary, Northern Germany, and later, in the Iron Age, - almost everywhere in Eurasia. In addition to the round fibulae, there were also ring-shaped fibulae, and also simple dress pins (Figure 1) [10].

Figure 1. The examples of fibulae

In the Middle Ages, fibulae did not change a lot. But besides them, agrafes - the pins on the clothes that fastened the collar of undershirt, or simply were put on for decorative purposes - came into fashion. More precious stones appeared on the adornments of the Middle Ages, as well as more complex images: the scenes of spiritual and religious content, animalistic images, as well as inscriptions, emblems and mottoes (Figure 2).

Figure 2. The example of an agrafe brooches

In the times of the early Renaissance, fibulae and agrafes practically stopped to be used due to radical changes in fashion. But in the 17^th century the fashion for brooches returned - solely as the adornment that fastened the decorative folds and draperies on clothes. In the 18^th century, charms and many loose parts appeared on the brooches. There were special brooches for hair, for skirts, for corsages, for sleeves. The set of brooches for one costume could consist of ten items [9, 10].

Brooch (fr. broche) is an adornment that is fastened to the clothes. It consists of a decorative part and a movable needle, which is immobilized by a hook [11, 12]. It can present clothes as more modest, complete, or, conversely, it can embellish clothes and to make the image and style more outrageous.

Modern products are quite diverse in form, in material of manufacture, in method of fastening. The variety and the large number of kinds of brooches determine the expediency

of their classification into different qualification groups (Figure 3): by the method of manufacturing, by the purpose, by the type, by the form, by the method of connection, by the type of decoration, by the style, by the material, by the location and by other directions of design-solutions.

By the method of manufacturing, the brooches can be made by hand or with the use of mechanized method of manufacturing. Manual techniques of manufacturing include the following types of brooches:

- soutache brooch (Figure 4, a), the material for which is a soutache - a thin and dense silk cord. Its flat shape allows it to fit smoothly to the fabric, and the gloss and

good flexibility promote for the creation of decorative waves, loops, various knots;

- tatting brooch - nodular technique of weaving of handmade lace using the shuttle or the needle (Figure 4, b). For the brooches manufactured with the use of this technique, beads and glass beads are often used that are woven into the lace;

- komono brooch - the kind of creative activity that arose from the Japanese gentle attitude to things and gave the name to one more type of brooches. Old kimonos were cut into small pieces and were used as the material for adornments or toys (Figure 4, c) [13];

Figure 3. The classification of the brooches

- kanzashi brooch, the basis of which is origami - the Japanese art of transformation of a flat object into a three-dimensional object. But in kanzashi technique the squares of natural silk, not the squares of paper, are fastened (Figure 4, d);

- milled brooch or the brooch manufactured with the use of felting technique, which are manufactured with the use of dry or wet felting technique, often these types are combined. Glass beads and beads, silk and lace, furniture are also used for

the decoration of milled brooches (Figure 4, e) [14];

- brooches made from glass beads, from rhinestones and from paillettes - using different methods of weaving and combining different colors and shapes of glass beads, handmade masters create various adornments (Figure 4, f, g, h).

Figure 4. The examples of brooches made with the use of the handmade techniques: a - soutache; b - tatting; c - komono; d - kanzashi; e - milling; f - bead weaving; g - made from rhinestones; h - made from paillettes