Aspects of colour perception and artistic clothing design

Aspects of colour perception and artistic clothing design

In this article, well-known and new colour theories are considered, and the main aspects of its study are analysed, which are based on the factors that influence the peculiarities of human colour perception. Among them, the most important ones related to the content of the artistic image of the costume stand out. Based on the theoretical analysis of literary sources, the properties of colour, which historically interested representatives of various professions: philosophers, physicists, doctors, and artists, were considered.

Аспекти сприйняття кольору і художне проектування одягу

О. Капран, старший викладач кафедри образотворчого мистецтва та дизайну Сумського педагогічного університету імені А.С. Макаренка (Суми, Україна)

Основною метою статті є виявлення факторів впливу на сприйняття кольорів, вивчення значення колірної складової в одязі, формування позитивного індивідуального та виробничого середовища шляхом застосування кольору в костюмі. Колір розглядається як одна з найбільш знакових характеристик костюму, яка приймає безпосередню участь в формуванні естетичної цінності одягу. У статті підкреслюється значення колірного оточення для гармонійного розвитку людини та з'ясовується, як за допомогою кольору здійснюється емоційно-психологічний вплив на глядача. Порушуються питання, чому люди мають різні кольорові переваги та відмінності в кольорових смаках. Авторами акцентується увага на відповідності певним кольорам певних психічних реакцій, наводяться результати досліджень колірного впливу на людину. та висвітлюються прийоми створення бажаного іміджу.

Ключові слова: сприйняття кольору, колористичне рішення, вплив кольору, колірні переваги, колір в костюмі, колірне оточення.

Formulation of the problem

Colour is one of the most iconic characteristics of a suit. The colour determines the image of the suit and forms the aesthetic value of the clothes. With the help of colour, an emotional and figurative influence on the viewer is carried out. The power of colour largely lies in its ability to "bypass" the protective mechanisms of consciousness and act on a subconscious level. Considering this, a modern person should know and understand how colour affects his body and psyche in order to better navigate the world around him. Understanding the meaning of colour preferences is the key to self-discovery and self-expression, the language of non-verbal communication. As an element of the symbolic system of the costume, colour is the most mobile, because the change of fashionable colours and their combinations occurs constantly, depending on the trends of the season. A huge number of colour combinations and, characteristics of different styles and fashion trends, visually and in verbal description, do not allow one to understand their meaning, therefore there is a need to study the meaning and psychological impact of the colour component during the training of a clothing designer.

Research analysis. Human life has always been connected with colour perception. Coloured environments are a natural phenomenon, an objective reality. Admiring the rainbow - a giant multi-coloured arch, man tried to understand its nature, recreate the colours to decorate clothes and household items, use colour combinations in drawings. In the course of development, mankind accumulated knowledge and discovered new patterns in matters of colour. It was noted that colour is able not only to attract attention but also to repulse it, to influence well-being and work capacity, psyche, and consciousness in opposite meanings. Colour can be both used to treat and harm health.

Historically, colours have been given a certain symbolic meaning. The importance of the colour environment for the harmonious development of a person is emphasized in many modern publications. Several theories of colour are known, among them the theory of harmonious colour combinations. In the book "100 More Things Every Designer Needs to Know About People" by the American author Susan Weinshek, the results of studies of the colour effect on people and the related reaction in different population groups are given (Weinschenk, 2013: 14). Publicist and market researcher Vance Packard in the book "The Hidden Persuaders" analyzes consumer requirements for colour design of clothing.

The topic of colour decision in costume design is considered in the article by O.M. Lagoda "Colour in fashion design". On the basis of known and new theories of colour, important aspects of its study are analyzed for the training of clothing designers. Attention is paid to the peculiarities of colour perception, its meaning, and significance in modern fashion (Lagoda, 2007: 67). Thus, consideration and study of the influence of colour on the conscious and unconscious levels of the human psyche is necessary for the formation of training programs for clothing designers.

The problem of colour perception and its influence has historically interested representatives of various professions: philosophers, physicists, doctors, and artists. The great German Poet J. Goethe considered his greatest achievement not the world-famous “Faust”, but his work on colour. Disagreeing with the existing theory of I. Newton about light and colour, J. Goethe proposed his own, based on the “sensory and moral influence of colours”. The research raises for the first time the question of the correspondence of certain colours to certain mental reactions - “certain colours cause special mental states of a person” (Goethe, 2019: 243). The author associates colour preferences in clothing with the character of the nation as a whole and of an individual in particular. Goethe divides colours into "positive", "negative" and “neutral”, drawing a parallel between colour harmony and the harmony of the human psyche. These provisions of Goethe's colour theory predicted the results of psychophysiologist's experiments, which prove the connection between colour perception and the activity of the human autonomic nervous system (Lysytsya, 2012: 19).

The colourful environment has always been of great importance for the harmonious development of a person's personality and society as a whole, which is emphasized in many modern publications. In the book “100 More Things Every Designer Needs to Know About People” by the American author S. Weinshenk, the results of the colour influence on a person and the associated reaction in different population groups, depending on professional affiliation, are given. The issues of colour accent and colour environment are raised, and serious differences in the symbolic meaning of the colour component are traced, depending on the part of the world where the research is conducted. The author warns that the same colour can have different meanings, therefore, in order not to get into trouble, it is better to study these nuances before offering your design to people of other cultures (Weinschenk, 2013: 18).

In the research of a modern scientist I.I. Shevchenko, integral characteristics of human activity are indicated in the context of colour constants of culture, and colour is characterized as an “interpreter” of personality. The author appeals to the fundamental research of psychology professor M. Lusher, who proved that the perception of colour was formed over a long historical period in the process of life. Lusher's discoveries also include the theory that the attitude to certain colours is determined by the nature of life activities of many generations of ancestors who were in one or another emotional state. In turn, I.I. Shevchenko, based on the results of his research, believes that the attitude to colour is always determined only by an emotional reaction. The author claims that the reaction to certain colours arises in a person in connection with his personal experiences, and forms emotions, which allows the concept of “colour of human” (Shevchenko, 2000: 9).

In clothing design, colour carries a special meaning. For a fashion designer, the understanding of the concept of the colour of a suit - the effect on a person and his environment is of great importance, since it is directly related to the content of the artistic image of clothes, capable of influencing the mental state of the individual and the mood in society as a whole. The purpose of this research is to identify the factors influencing the perception of colours, to study the meaning of the colour component in clothes, and to create a positive individual and production environment by using colour in a suit.

Presenting main material

Many people still consider most of the available information about colour as unscientific. This is because the process of colour perception is largely subjective and ambiguous. Physiologists suggest that colour associations may have been formed in the early stages of human history, when man associated blue with night-time and, accordingly, with passivity, and bright yellow with the sun and activity.

Philosophers claim that in order to understand the meaning of colour, a person needs to understand himself. In order to understand the nature of colour perception, several academic studies on colour were analysed. Psychologist-marketer N. Kolenda in his studies on the psychology of colour came to the conclusion that the favourite colour of most people around the world is blue. But why is this so? Why do people like different shades of tones, for example, soft blue or dark blue? If we all have more or less the same biological nature, shouldn't we have the same colour preferences? Where do the differences in our tastes come from? The theory of ecological valence can bring relative clarity to this issue. According to this theory, the perception of a certain colour develops on the basis of the emotional experience acquired over time. Colour sensations can evoke memories and associated images and mental states (Kolenda, 2013: 109).

All colour associations will be divided into physical and emotional. Everything in the universe is in eternal motion. Each thing in it constantly vibrates, generating its own unique frequency. A person has sensory abilities and can pick up vibrations. Each colour of the spectrum has its own range of vibration, from the lowest (violet) to the highest (red). To these properties, we owe the ability to distinguish colours on a physical level, and our eye is able to distinguish 1.5 million colours and shades (Pryshchenko, 2018: 56).

The colour environment directly affects the emotional state and behavior of a person. In this regard, the theory of chromaticism is of interest, which claims that the change of colours in art and fashion contributes to the self-expression of humanity. The question of the compatibility of a certain colour and a person is practically not raised in any of the scientific studies, to a certain extent it is tracked in fashion, design, and advertising, areas where a person's choice of colour is obvious. (Pazynich, 2011: 175).

Colour has both biological and informative qualities. It awakens not only the energy of a person's physical field but also the psychological field. So, for example, the blue colour inspires trust and creates the impression of seriousness, thoughtfulness, and reliability. This is the colour of authority, not by chance, the business dress code for men for official business events prescribes wearing a dark blue suit. The blue colour represents conservatism and leads to calm communication. The designer can confidently offer blue clothes to a person who wants to overcome anxiety and excitement. This colour is attractive to people with a phlegmatic temperament. individual production color clothing image

The combination of blue and white is considered ideal for careerists, this combination develops flexibility and the ability to adapt. This colour is necessary if you need to restore balance in life. This is the most popular corporate colour. The colour of wisdom, which causes processes in the body, promoting relaxation. Blue clothes symbolize trust and loyalty.

Green colour in clothes is very ambiguous, this is due to the fact that it refers to neutral, from the point of view of warm-cold colours, and can have many different shades. In general, it is characterized as the most comfortable colour for visual perception. It relieves fatigue and increases tone. An ideal colour for gathering strength. This is the colour of stability and well-being; it is often chosen by bankers. A dark green suit for men is a sign of conservative views, but at the same time, a small accent of this colour in a tie creates the impression of a zealous person. Light green, on the other hand, personifies youth, lightness and frivolity, growth and development. Psychologists claim that the green colour helps suppress such feelings as jealousy, envy, and greed.

Red is dynamics and passion. A woman in a red dress is always noticeable. The designer should choose the red colour if he wants his suit to be the center of attention. But at the same time, if the clothes are intended for an event where you need to establish contact and place your interlocutors, it is better to choose softer shades of red, because deep red can not only attract attention, but also psychologically oppress. Red colour is loved by choleric people. At work, an excess of red can lead to nervousness. A small element of red in clothes will help emphasize courage and energy. It should be added to the wardrobe of a person who lacks enthusiasm and interest in life.

Orange, like yellow, is the colour of joy and optimism. Scientists say that long-term contemplation of the colour orange compensates for the daily dose of vitamin C. The orange colour creates a feeling of well-being and positivity, it adds energy and lifts the mood. This colour is not recommended to be used in a business environment, if it is not related to creativity and creativity. t symbolizes creativity, drive, uniqueness, and activity. Stimulates appetite. Orange rooms are arranged for the conversation. This colour is clearly visible because it has a long-wave organization. This colour is attractive to sanguine people, but the designer must remember that it is not for everyone, because it can cause reflexes of violet shades on very fair skin.

Brown colour is the only chromatic colour that is not in the colour wheel. Associatively, it is warm and soft, causes attachment to oneself. This colour is well suited for a business meeting or an interview. This colour helps in trade and financial affairs. Brown gives wisdom and the ability to maintain equal relationships. Clothes of brown shades will suit solid, practical people. However, it is better for the designer to use it as a base colour in combination with other related colours, for example, cream, beige, chocolate, the main thing is that all the shades and nuances of the colour are “in harmony”.

Gray, white, and black colours are achromatic, their combination in a suit is classical. The neutral grey colour does not evoke bright emotions, so it is suitable for a business environment. This is the colour of balance. Gray symbolizes calmness, assuredness, security, and maturity. But, at the same time, the frequent wearing of grey clothes may not have the best effect on the image, there is a risk of seeming a faceless, withdrawn, and uninitiated person. This colour is indispensable in those situations when you need to take the position of an observer, staying on the side-lines. The grey colour is especially pleasant for melancholic people.

White colour is a symbol of purity and lightness. It psychologically "extinguishes" irritation. White clothes are solemn and elegant and always attract special attention. All over the world, the white flag is a symbol of reconciliation. A very bright white colour can cause a feeling of anxiety and discomfort in some people. At the same time, this colour promotes clarity and freshness of thought.

The black colour is elegant, but it does not catch the eye and does not stand out from the crowd. Positive associations: refinement, sophistication, dignity, and mystery. In China, oddly enough, it is a colour for young children, in Asia it symbolizes career and knowledge, but in Japan, it is a rebellious colour. The black colour strengthens the will and helps to concentrate, it builds distance, helps to detach. In the everyday version, black clothes often require chromatic support in accessories. The designer should offer black ensembles to people who communicate a lot, as the achromatic colour does not make the interlocutor tired. Colour therapy refers to black as a colour that stimulates self-confidence. Achromatic combination - white, grey, black - always looks strict and concise. Black and white is a classic that does not need additions. White with grey, grey with grey, grey with black - an ideal background for bright colour accents. All colours of the spectrum harmonize with achromatic colours.

Can it be said that during life a person gravitates towards one colour or a certain colour combination? Research has shown that this is not the case. Colour preferences of many people change depending on age, gender, circumstances, and mood. In the life of the same person, several rather long periods can change: the “red period”, is when a person is young, in love, seeks to make a career, and is confident in himself. Then it can be replaced by a “blue”, “blue” or “green period “blue”, when a person has reached a certain social level, has a family, and is settled in everyday life. The onset of “brown” and “grey” periods is possible as a result of negative life circumstances and depressive moods. When a difficult time passes, the preference is again given to light and bright or calm deep tones (Kapran, 2020: 64).

Another impressive aspect that affects the choice of colour preference is its identification with the “colour of the soul”. Researchers claim that the colour of clothes can contrast with the “colour of the soul”, suppress the latter or emphasize it. Both options alternate periodically. “At first, a person combines the colour of clothes and the “colour of the soul” in his preferences. When colour fatigue sets in from such monotony, the colour is changed to a contrasting one, to pass through neutral grey to a new stage of one's life, to a new “colour of the soul”, and then to clothes”.

In the theory of chromaticism, the resonance of the unconscious structure of the personality and colour harmony is connected with the concept of intelligence. According to the colour that a person prefers, it is possible to determine his emotional state at the moment, and if these preferences are quite constant, then it is possible to determine the character of a person and the level of his intelligence. The higher the intelligence, the more complex, sophisticated shade a person will prefer (Lusher, 2022).

An important point in reading the colour code of clothes is understanding the concept of image. An image is a purposefully formed image designed to have an emotional and psychological impact. An image is a business card created for others, the impression that a person consciously wants to create in others. The desire to wear things of certain colours can be dictated not only by colour preference but also by fashion recommendations, to look modern and stylish. Psychologists claim that by following fashion trends, you can add variety to your life, arouse interest in those around you, and accelerate the onset of positive changes. As a rule, designers offer several directions for the development of fashion trends. The choice of a fashionable colour component in clothes must be conscious, and correspond to a person's notions of the nobility of style so that the new image does not turn into a mask that hides the true face and forces a person to “play the wrong role”.

Conclusions

Colour is an informative variety of energy that affects a person in a certain way, practically regardless of his awareness. In clothing design, colour has special characteristics different from other areas of human activity. The colour determines the image of the suit and sets it in a certain way, forming the aesthetic value of the clothes. The choice of clothing colour characterizes the personality, reveals its deep needs, and promotes self-discovery and self-expression. Stylists, image makers, and etiquette experts pay great attention to the colour decision in clothes. The colour training of future fashion designers requires the learning of factors affecting the perception of colours. By understanding the meanings of colours, you can manage the impression and create the necessary image.

Colour in fashion is a special aspect of research that covers the various directions of the function of colour in suits. The prediction of colour in a suit is based on the study of colour perception and colour preferences of people of different categories. Each specialist has his own colour selection system for creating clothing models, which is a serious component of the designer's author's style and determines his exclusive creative manner. Using different colours and their shades, in individual designs, the author conveys to the form an emotional colouring of different tension and content, which depends on the purpose of the clothes, character, and age of the consumer.

In the process of artistic design of a suit, it is necessary to take into account aspects of the psychological impact of the colour component on the viewer, because the colour environment affects the mood of a person and society as a whole. By choosing certain colours and shades, the designer can evoke associations and experiences programmed by the image of the suit.

Changing colour combinations in clothes happens more often than changing the silhouette, proportions, or structural details. In fashion design, there is a concept of "professional colour culture", which means the ability to work with colour and is related to both the symbolism of colour and its psychophysiological impact. Education of future designers is a process that should include studying not only aesthetic but also emotional and psychological aspects of the influence of colour. This is necessary because the colour in the suit pretends to transform the emotional subconscious attitude to the situation into a conscious embodiment - fashionable colours of the season. On average, the colour is considered relevant from one to three years. This period of time is allocated by the nature of social communication for the transition to the next stage of the intellectual development of society.

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