Polish women’s fashion magazines in Lviv (end of the 19th - the 1st half of the 20th century: political influences of Western European publications

Ðàçìåùåíî íà http://www.Allbest.Ru/

Lviv Polytechnic National University

Department of International Information

Pedagogical University of Commission of National Education in Krakow

Institute of Preschool and School Pedagogy

Department of the History of Education and Upbringing

Polish women's fashion magazines in Lviv (end of the 19th - the 1st half of the 20th century: political influences of Western European publications

M. Pavliukh, PhD Soc. Com., Senior Lect.

A. Faynik, Postgraduate Student

K. Dormus, PhD hab. (History), Professor

Lviv, Krakow

Abstract

The political influence of Western European magazines on the Polish women's fashion magazines has been analysed, which were published in Lviv and on the territory of Warsaw, Krakow, and Vienna at the end of the 19th and the first half of the 20th centuries. The Polish women s fashion publications have undergone a transformation process: from appendices of respected socio-political publications to independent publications; from salon fashion publications to socio-political magazines dedicated to women's activity in a political and social life.

The purpose of the research is to study the mattified of the Polish women's fashion magazines published in Lviv and distributed in other European cities; to trace the transformation processes of the Polish political women's periodicals formation of the end of the 19th - the first half of the 20th century, which emerged from women's fashion magazines and were influenced by Western European magazines significantly.

The Research Methodology. There have been used comparative and historical, structural and systemic, and problem-chronological approaches in the analysis of the topics and issues of the Polish women's fashion magazines, which were influenced by Western European magazines; analysis and synthesis of the problems of the Polish women's magazines; a comparative analysis comparing and contrasting the thematic field of the Polish women's fashion magazines. The structural and systemic method made it possible to trace the process of transformation of the Polish women's fashion publications.

The Scientific Novelty. The transformation process of the Polish women's fashion magazines at the end of 19th and at the beginning of the 20th centuries into sociopolitical magazines that were influenced by Europe has been studied; the main features of the thematic field of the Polish women's publications, which were characteristic of the publications of these magazines, have been highlighted; general trends in the development of genre features of this group of women's magazines and their connection with the Ukrainian women's fashion magazines have been established.

The Conclusion. The Polish women's fashion magazines, which were published in Lviv and distributed on the territory of Warsaw, Krakow, and Vienna, underwent a significant transformation: from fashion magazines of an entertaining nature to socio-political publications. These processes were facilitated by the influence of Western European fashion magazines.

Key words: transformational processes, Polish women's fashion magazines, salon fashion publications, women's entertainment press.

Àíîòàö³ÿ

Ïîëüñüê³ æ³íî÷³ ÷àñîïèñè ìîäè ó Ëüâîâ³ (ê³íåöü Õ²Õ - ïåðøà ïîëîâèíà ÕÕ ñò.): ïîë³òè÷í³ âïëèâè çàõ³äíîºâðîïåéñüêèõ âèäàíü

Ì. Ïàâëþõ, ê. í. ñîö. êîìóí³ê., ñò. âèêëàäà÷; À. Ôàéíèê, çäîáóâà÷êà êàôåäðè ì³æíàðîäíî¿ ³íôîðìàö³¿ Íàö³îíàëüíîãî óí³âåðñèòåòó “Ëüâ³âñüêà ïîë³òåõí³êà", ì. Ëüâ³â,

Ê. Äîðìóñ, ä.³.í., ïðîôåñîð êàôåäðè ³ñòî𳿠îñâ³òè òà âèõîâàííÿ ²íñòèòóòó äîøê³ëüíî¿ òà øê³ëüíî¿ ïåäàãîã³êè Ïåäàãîã³÷íîãî óí³âåðñèòåòó Êîì³ñ³¿ íàðîäíî¿ îñâ³òè â Êðàêîâ³, ì. Êðàê³â

Ó ñòàòò³ ïðîàíàë³çîâàíî ïîë³òè÷íèé óïëèâ çàõ³äíîºâðîïåéñüêèõ ÷àñîïèñ³â íà ïîëüñüê³ æ³íî÷³ ÷àñîïèñè ìîäè, ÿê³ âèõîäèëè ó Ëüâîâ³ òà íà òåðèòî𳿠Âàðøàâè, Êðàêîâà, ³äíÿ ó ê³íö³ Õ²Õ - ïåðø³é ïîëîâèí³ ÕÕ ñò. Ïîëüñüê³ æ³íî÷³ âèäàííÿ ìîäè ïðîéøëè ïðîöåñ òðàíñôîðìàö³¿: â³ä äîäàòê³â ïîâàæíèõ ñóñï³ëüíî-ïîë³òè÷íèõ äî ñàìîñò³éíèõ âèäàíü; â³ä ñàëîíîâèõ âèäàíü ìîäè äî ñóñï³ëüíî- ïîë³òè÷íèõ ÷àñîïèñ³â, ïðèñâÿ÷åíèõ àêòèâíîñò³ æ³íîê ó ïîë³òè÷íîìó òà ñóñï³ëüíîìó æèòò³.

Ìåòà ñòàòò³ - äîñë³äèòè òåìàòè÷íå ïîëå ïîëüñüêèõ æ³íî÷èõ ÷àñîïèñ³â ìîäè, ùî âèõîäèëè ó Ëüâîâ³ òà ïîøèðþâàëèñÿ â ³íøèõ ºâðîïåéñüêèõ ì³ñòàõ; ïðîñòåæèòè òðàíñôîðìàö³éí³ ïðîöåñè ñòàíîâëåííÿ ïîëüñüêî¿ ïîë³òè÷íî¿ æ³íî÷î¿ ïåð³îäèêè ê³íöÿ Õ²Õ - ïåðøî¿ ïîëîâèíè ÕÕ ñò., ÿê³ ïîñòàëè ³ç æ³íî÷èõ ÷àñîïèñ³â ìîäè ³ çàçíàëè ñóòòºâîãî óïëèâó çàõ³äíîºâðîïåéñüêèõ ÷àñîïèñ³â.

Ìåòîäè äîñë³äæåííÿ. Ó ñòàòò³ âèêîðèñòàíî ïîð³âíÿëüíî-³ñòîðè÷íèé, ñòðóêòóðíî-ñèñòåìíèé, ïðîáëåìíî-õðîíîëîã³÷íèé ï³äõîäè â àíàë³ç³ òåìàòèêè ³ ïðîáëåìàòèêè ïîëüñüêèõ æ³íî÷èõ ïåð³îäè÷íèõ âèäàíü ìîäè, ÿê³ çàçíàëè âïëèâ³â çàõ³äíîºâðîïåéñüêèõ ÷àñîïèñ³â; àíàë³ç ³ ñèíòåç ïðîáëåìàòèêè ïîëüñüêèõ æ³íî÷èõ ÷àñîïèñ³â; êîìïàðàòèâíèé àíàë³ç ó ç³ñòàâëåíí³ é ïðîòèñòàâëåíí³ òåìàòè÷íîãî ïîëÿ ïîëüñüêèõ æ³íî÷èõ ÷àñîïèñ³â ìîäè. Ñòðóêòóðíî-ñèñòåìíèé ìåòîä óìîæëèâèâ â³äñòåæèòè ïðîöåñ òðàíñôîðìàö³¿ ïîëüñüêèõ æ³íî÷èõ âèäàíü ìîäè.

Íàóêîâà íîâèçíà. Äîñë³äæåíî ïðîöåñ òðàíñôîðìàö³¿ ïîëüñüêèõ æ³íî÷èõ ÷àñîïèñ³â ìîäè ê³íöÿ Õ²Õ - ïî÷àòêó ÕÕ ñò. ó ñóñï³ëüíî-ïîë³òè÷í³, ÿê³ çàçíàëè çíà÷íèõ ºâðîïåéñüêèõ âïëèâ³â; âèîêðåìëåíî ãîëîâí³ ðèñè òåìàòè÷íîãî ïîëÿ ïîëüñüêèõ æ³íî÷èõ âèäàíü, õàðàêòåðí³ äëÿ ¿õ ïóáë³êàö³é; âñòàíîâëåíî çàãàëüí³ òåíäåíö³¿ ðîçâèòêó æàíðîâèõ îñîáëèâîñòåé ö³º¿ ãðóïè æ³íî÷èõ ÷àñîïèñ³â, ¿õí³é çâ'ÿçîê ³ç óêðà¿íñüêèìè æ³íî÷èìè ÷àñîïèñàìè ìîäè.

Âèñíîâêè. Ïîëüñüê³ æ³íî÷³ ÷àñîïèñè ìîäè, ÿê³ âèõîäèëè ó Ëüâîâ³ ³ ïîøèðþâàëèñÿ íà òåðèòî𳿠Âàðøàâè, Êðàêîâà òà ³äíÿ çàçíàëè ñóòòºâî¿ òðàíñôîðìàö³¿: â³ä ÷àñîïèñ³â ìîäè ðîçâàæàëüíîãî õàðàêòåðó äî ñóñï³ëüíî-ïîë³òè÷íèõ âèäàíü. Öèì ïðîöåñàì ñïðèÿëè çàõ³äíîºâðîïåéñüê³ ÷àñîïèñè ìîäè.

Êëþ÷îâ³ ñëîâà: òðàíñôîðìàö³éí³ ïðîöåñè, ïîëüñüê³ æ³íî÷³ ÷àñîïèñè ìîäè, ñàëîíîâ³ âèäàííÿ, ðîçâàæàëüíà æ³íî÷à ïðåñà.

The Problem Statement

Women's fashion magazines occupy an important place among the Polish women's magazines at the end of the 19th - the beginning of the 20th centuries, which were published in Lviv. The first magazine with a fashion page was “Dziennik Mod Paryskich” (1840 - 1848), but this magazine cannot be called a traditional fashion magazine, because starting from Issue 2, the publication changed its profile: in addition to fashion, it contained a large literary and socio-political part. Other Polish women's fashion magazines: “Mody Paryskie” (1895-1902), “Nowe Mody Paryskie” (1890 - 1913), “Kobieta w Domu i Salonie” (1925) felt Western European political influences and were similar in genre and organization editors to each other. There were also published two more fashion magazines in Lviv: “Mody Kobiece” (1933) and “Praktyczna Gospodyni” (1906-1914) (dodatek do “Nowa Ilustrowana Garderoba Dzieci^ca”), which did not have a defined regularity and were poorly preserved, but have similar editorial departments, a well-illustrated page of children's and women's fashion. “Mody Kobiece” evolved into other fashion magazines, so its trail as a magazine is lost after 1933.

Fashion magazines had several common features: fashion as the main profile of the publication (each magazine had a well-illustrated fashion page with samples of European clothing), the structure and main subject were built according to the same principles as fashion magazines abroad. The publishers of magazines borrowed almost everything for the launch of these publications: the magazine publication (most often a woman in a fashionable outfit on the front page), the main sections devoted to women; the sections devoted to skin care, a woman's appearance, practical advice for every young lady, a discussion of the topic of marriage and advertising of fashionable tailoring companies.

Some of these publications were published not only in Lviv or Polish cities, but also, for example, in Warsaw or Vienna. Not all editions were independent magazines at the initial stages of their existence. At first, they appeared as thematic pages of other magazines, as their supplements with the obligatory fashion page. However, they all have common features, a similar history.

These fashion magazines changed their target audience - the magazine was not only aimed at the rich, wealthy women like “Dziennik Mod Paryskich”, but also the middle-class women. The popularity of fashion magazines reached far beyond Lviv and Galicia - even the Ukrainian women subscribed to the Polish fashion publications of this period.

The main examples of fashionable clothing in women's fashion magazines were the Parisian ones, as the names of the publications could be the proof: “Mody Paryskie” and “Nowe Mody Paryskie”. The Polish women's fashion magazines, which were published in Lviv, but were distributed in many other Polish and European cities, can be called salon publications.

We trace the salon tradition periodicals' revival in the Polish women's periodicals, but the nature and organization of editorial work were different: superficial materials did not prevail, a large number of practical advisory departments for young ladies appeared, which ensured new salon fashion publications high circulation and popularity among women of various classes people (Dormus, 2020, p. 168). A woman (Dormus, 2019, p. 25), a woman's care for her appearance, education of good social manners, good taste in women's clothing were the focus of every women's fashion publication.

Femininity becomes the main feature of many publications. The political activity of women in a public life (Dormus, 2019, p. 112) was the overarching theme of these publications.

The Analysis of Sources and Recent Research. We came across the Polish women's fashion publications owing to the monograph, written by Katarzyna Dormus, which covered the educational aspects of women's publications. Based on this monograph, there is information available about the structure of publications, periodicity, main topics, and conditions for publishing journals. In the work of Jezy Franke, a thorough analysis of the Polish women's publications was carried out and a retrospective of the Polish political women's press development was presented. The role and influence of the Polish women's press in Lviv was discussed in the monograph by Jezy Jarowiecki, who noted that certain groups of women's magazines were influenced by Western European politics. Zbigniew Kmiecik studied revolutionary and political topics in the work “Prasa polska w rewolucji 1905-1907”. The primary sources of our scientific article were issues and numbers of magazines: “Mody Paryskie”, “Nowe Mody Paryskie”, “Kobieta w domu i salonie”, “Praktyczna Gospodyni”, “Mody kobiecy”.

The purpose of the research is to analyse the thematic background of the Polish women's fashion publications; to carry out a comparative analysis of these publications (headings, genres, issues); to trace the transformation process of these magazines.

The Results of the Research

We find the following brief bibliographic information about the “Mody Paryskie” publication: “Mody Paryskie”. Monthly supplement to “Glos narodu”. The magazine was published on December 1, 1895. There were the outfits, drawings, fashions of different seasons on the title page” (Zalewska, 1938, p. 95). “Mody Paryskie” were originally an add-on. On the first page of the publication, the editors published an article about fashion “Winter Fashion” along with illustrations and drawings of clothes (Mody Paryskie, 1895, p. 1). On Page 2 was the traditional “Mody” editorial department with a description of fashionable clothing in Europe (Mody Paryskie, 1895, p. 2).

Basic bibliographic data about the magazine was given in the work, published by J. Franke: “In 1879, Mody Paryskie: an Illustrated Magazine for Women Appeared. Publishers: Wanga Gansaryk, editor-in-chief - Jadwiga Witkiewicz. This magazine had many problems. Although the editorial office convinced the public of its popularity among the readers, the issues were published irregularly. At the end of 1880, there was even a quarterly cessation of publication of the magazine” (Franke, 1991, p. 166).

“A similar edition to “Dziennika Mod Paryskich” was Lviv publication “Mody Paryskie”, which was published in 1895 - 1902 as a supplement to “Glos narodu”. The magazine was well illustrated and devoted to fashion. Alexandr Milski edited and published the magazine. It contained: novelties, reprints, literary and political articles” (Dormus, 2006, p. 274).

The first issue of the publication for December 1, 1895, for example, published several poems, short stories and other works of art. The editors introduced the following sections of the “Chronicle of the Women's Movement”, short subsections: “Women at the University”, “Women's Societies” (Mody Paryskie, 1895, p. 3). The entire spread was devoted to models. Small columns of information content were introduced: “Theatre”, in which articles about the winter season and the main performances prevailed, “From Lviv Salon” - about fashion news, “Kitchen” - about recipes, “Economic Tips”, “Riddles For the Readers”, “Humorous Corner”. On the penultimate page, the editors placed an advertisement in color. The last page was devoted to embroidery, embroidery (Mody Paryskie, 1895).

The columns of the magazine “Mody Paryskie” were dominated by the articles about fashion. Sometimes problematic and political articles on the women's issue were submitted. In the “Chronicle of the Women's Movement” section, the editors carried out a brief informational description of the main events in the public life of women. The editors informed their readers about the Polish women's movement, about the women's movement of many

European countries. To this editorial department, columns were added about famous women who receive majors at universities, using their right to learn and get an education (Dormus, 2016, p. 89). The column “Women's Societies” informed the female audience about various foreign women's organizations, women's conferences (Mody Paryskie, 1895, pp. 3-4).

The information columns “Theatre” and “From Lviv Salon” were advertisements and short reports. The column “From Lviv Salon” was popular, in which the editors provided information about the new fashions of the season: fashionable colors, dress fashion, as well as detailed addresses of stores where these dresses can be bought (Mody Paryskie, 1895, p. 5).

Two sections of the editorial office “Kitchen” and “Economic Tips” had a practical character. In the “Kitchen” section, the editors presented cooking recipes for delicious dishes. In the Business Advice section, the editors often answered questions of their audience; to the letters that came to the editorial office with questions. It was the hands-on department of a fashion magazine, transforming the magazine from a narrow-profile into a multi-specialty magazine for women.

The magazine “Nowe Mody Paryskie” was published not only in Lviv, but was also distributed in Warsaw, Krakow, and Vienna. “Nowe Mody Paryskie” began their publication history much earlier, in Warsaw, and in Lviv they were published later, since 1890. The Polish fashion magazines' scholars considered both magazines “Nowe Mody Paryskie” and “Mody Paryskie” side by side, because the publications had similar names, topics and were published in the same period. In addition, both editions were profiled as fashion magazines that were influenced by Western European politics.

“Nowe Mody Paryskie” was a typical commercial illustrated magazine devoted to fashion. It was a biweekly published in Vienna, as well as in Krakow, Lviv and Warsaw. It was published in Polish during the years 1890 - 1913” (Dormus, 2006, p. 276). polish magazine fashion political women's periodicals

This magazine was popular among the public. The magazine was subtitled “a magazine devoted to women” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 1), and below it was specified that the weekly was devoted to literature, women's affairs and fashion. On the first column, the name is presented in a large, beautiful font with a pattern of a fashionable dress. In the magazine there were eight pages.

The first issue was submitted by the information department of “News” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 1), and already on Page 2 in the “Preface” the editor of the magazine wrote: “We are starting our publication for women, we want to describe in a few pages how we understand its task. In all things women's clothing; everything related to fashion will be covered by our magazine. Let's pay attention to what can be useful for women” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 1, p. 2). Thus, in the first editorial, it was written that the main topic of the publication is a fashion magazine. Fashion is the main profile of the publication. A practical motive appears in the magazine - the benefit to women in an everyday life and home economics.

The traditional sections of this issue were: “Everyday”, “From the week” - short informational news about memorable dates or holidays. Brief information about Palm Sunday was printed in the first issue. The poems were also published: “Poor Girl”, “Fragment” Jaskolka (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 1). The translations on the works of world literature (V. Hugo) began to appear in Issue 2, as well as new sections: “Theatrical Report” - the short descriptions of plays, reviews of well-known Polish plays; “Economical Advice” - a practical section devoted to economic management (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 2). Traditional publications were the articles devoted to women's beauty. For example, the article “About Beauty” was published in Issue 4, in which femininity, feminine charm (emphasis added) became the main features: “It is not enough to be beautiful, you need to have beautiful features, a graceful figure, and white graceful hands; what else is needed for this, you say, dear readers? - Still - the gift of liking” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 4, p. 2).

There were many similar articles in the columns of this publication. In addition, in this issue, the editors introduce another section of “Conversation on Fashion”, which discussed women's toilets (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 15). The following editorial departments began to appear in other issues of the magazine: “Chronicle of Krakow” - reviews of famous Krakow plays, biographical information about famous actors; “On Hygiene”, which the doctor filled with content, as well as the articles about nature and plants (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 25). Hygienic topics quickly became leading in the magazine. Sometimes the editors gave a piece of advice on how to organize a house, for example, in the section “Household Advice” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 26).

The editors introduced a whole cycle of the articles dedicated to the brides from the twentieth issue. The authors discussed the following issues: fashionable clothing, norms of behavior, morality and femininity in young girls. These articles were not thorough. The cycle of articles for the brides was reminiscent of the first salon publications for women, which were assigned to the bride and came out earlier. The articles on the subject of marriage were not characterized by emotionality or religiosity, although the magazine shared Catholic values in the upbringing of a young lady (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 27).

The magazine paid specific attention to the topic of frugality in the economy. A typical article on this topic was the article “Accounts” by Jany Jelenski, which dealt with frugality as a major problem in farming. The editors saw accounts and frugality as help to the husband, as a constant support, the right hand in household affairs. The main widespread opinion, for example, the stereotype of the Polish society, the editors called good management of the household economy by the woman. When a housewife did not always take care of her household thriftiness. The image of a thrifty, homely, practical woman was singled out as the general image of a housewife (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 15).

The second important topic of the magazine was the topic of raising children. The article “For the Good of Children” written by J.J., in which the problem of Pedagogy was sharply posed, attracts attention among the articles on this topic. Education was represented by a figurative concept - the tree of education, which was an important matter. Parental love was not enough for the tree of upbringing, but normal pedagogical principles are needed, which will form goodness in children. Goodness was the main category in the education of the young Polish generation (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 26).

In Issue 27, a programmatic political article on the women's question “Where is the work?” was published (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No. 27, p. 5). Programmatic articles on women's equality were rarely presented in the magazine's columns. We trace a certain evolution of views: women were no longer fighting for equality with men; women strived to find and realize themselves in various spheres, strive to expand women's work: “We returned from the issue of women's emancipation, which had to start from the end and correct the mistake. Does anyone remember our discussions a few years ago about the “case of women's equality”? In every article, every magazine it was written about the equality of women; every case touched on this issue. The time came when we talk about the expansion of women's work” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 27, p. 5). The priority was not emancipation or women's equality, but women's activism, participation in public work became the main reference point for politically active women. The above-mentioned fact showed that women made significant progress - the right to education, political and economic rights, so equality in the article was not relevant. In the women's movement, the issues of women's political activity, women's realization and the search for new forms of women's improvement as significant female progress, which were popular topics of Western European women's magazines of this period, were actualized.

In other issues of the magazine, the editors introduced new sections for their readers: “Medical Conversations”, “English Literature”, “Literary Chronicle” - a bibliographic department, where anthropological an the naturalistic articles for children, advice for parents were published. The magazine was transformed from an entertaining fashion magazine into an informative and ideologically political one. The articles on history, anthropology, and nature were aimed at raising the intellectual level of their audience (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No 1). Therefore, translations of the world work into the Polish appeared in the magazine, which gave young Poles a chance to familiarize themselves with the world literature.

The bibliographic department submitted reviews of the well-known Polish books; recommended books worth reading to a female audience, and also spread the slogan of selfeducation, which should fill the gap of an imperfect, superficial female education (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 25). The “Medical Talks” section was Hygiene Section in which a medical specialist wrote about women's problems, diseases, and how to get rid of many complexes (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 15).

One of the leading topics raised by the authors of the magazine was the expediency of using cosmetics for young girls. It was only a female topic. Femininity and beauty become the main tasks of the magazine. Taking care of appearance was the main issue of the articles on the cosmetics issue. Aesthetics and good taste were criteria that influence a woman's choice in using cosmetics. The article “On Appearance Care” by Wiktor Hodacki focused on the cosmetics harmfulness issue to the female body (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1890, No 25).

Issue 1 of the second year of the publication began with several poems, among them there was a poetry, written by Marji Konopnicki (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No. 1, pp. 2-3). Traditionally, the editor's column “During the Week” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No. 1, p. 6) was submitted, in which the editors submitted an article on a current issue, usually about the moral education of children. Raising children again remained a leading theme of the magazine. The concept appeared in the magazine - responsibility for the younger generation and kindness - the main basis of a child upbringing. The editors considered educational reform to be a major problem in a child education. Education did not raise a child well enough as a good person and did not instill an interest in books. In the first editorial about the New Year, the editors covered all these important issues of child education: “To start a new life with the new year, it is necessary to leave in the past diseases and pain, patience, irony of fate and bad deeds; you need to have optimism for the second year. But here you still need to single out the sins of the old year to change your behavior and correct bad deeds. And this is a big step in front of public opinion, because we are responsible for the younger generation, for those little ones who will take their place in the country after us. It is necessary to have resistance to a moral damage that young people experience. When a small child is just born, we say that when he/she completes an education, then will be a smart person. And a child reaches for a book, even on a vacation he has no spare time. Then a father and son go to Warsaw and a tearful mother draws a cross on her son's head. And schools need reform. As long as a child has an interest, it is necessary to show and lead that interest to the book” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No 1, p. 3). An important factor in an educational reform is a public opinion and responsibility of a specific person for raising his child before the community. Resistance to moral harm is the main slogan of a good, spiritual, patriotic upbringing of a child in the magazine's articles.

In addition to the articles on child education, literary articles became popular. Life comedy prevailed in the magazine's columns and drama disappeared. Comedy of life as a special genre introduced by the editors was a realistic picture of reality (play), but with a sense of humor, which made fun of the negative aspects of life. The section “Theatrical Viewing” (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No. 1, p. 6) was published in Issue 1, in which a review of the play by Waclawa Szymanowskiego, Maiji Ratynski was published (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No 1, p. 7). The reviews were written thoroughly and professionally. Criticism was the main feature of these reviews of well-known theatrical performances.

Issue 3 included the rubric “Carnival News” and was devoted to a description of carnival attire with a detailed history of the carnival. In Issue 6 of the publication, an article of a problematic nature “Where is the Work of Our Women?” was published. Jany Jelenski, covered an important topic - mortality among models, who did not finish eating. It was the first problematic article on the world of fashion. The image of fashion as a general evil to a female body appeared in the article as the cause of malnutrition and death of young women. Despite a high salary, models wasted their vitality and health because they were forced to stand in the windows of expensive stores for several hours a day. Mortality was a sad consequence of the insatiable world of fashion, which at first glance beckoned with its sophistication, beauty, and intrigue. The article presented the statistics of female mortality convincingly, which reached a high level among beautiful, young girls (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No 6, p. 4).

In this issue, the editors introduced a new section “On Painting”, which was filled with Bronislaw Zawadski's work (Nowe Mody Paryskie, 1891, No. 6, p. 6). There were large, informative articles on the topic of painting. The editors reported on fashion exhibitions, famous paintings by contemporary foreign and Polish artists. Sometimes there were given brief biographical details of famous artists, their relatives and families in this section.

The editors introduced a cycle of articles on children's home education. In Issue 10, the article “Parents and Children” from this cycle of articles was published. Morality becomes the main feature of articles on a child-upbringing. Morality should be instilled by parents, school, and church in children from early childhood. The magazine considered the formation of a child's worldview as the main goal of a child education, and goodness became a spiritual category for the formation of a future personality. Catholic values were among the moral principles highlighted in the series of articles on child-upbringing.

The small column “Paris Chronicle” was introduced in Issue 14. This column was dedicated to famous artistic actions, and performances of the Parisian public. Sometimes the materials of this section resembled theatre reports, a short retelling of the play, and a description of the main characters, who participated in the play. Traditionally, the first pages of the magazine featured Informational Department “News” - short notes of informational genres about artistic events in Lviv. In the eighteenth issue of 1891, the section “Lviv Chronicle” was introduced - reports on theatre performances in Lviv. The second year of publication of the magazine ended with Issue 23, and the permanent editorial departments were preserved.

As a result, after analysing the editorial departments, columns, and articles of the magazine “Nowe Mody Paryskie” and “Mody Paryskie”, we conclude that the publication underwent significant European influences, especially in the descriptions of fashionable clothes and political topics - popular in Western European magazines. Moreover, the magazines published many articles on women's beauty, hygiene, child-rearing, and practical business advice. Femininity, aesthetics, and beauty were features characteristic of magazine materials. Hygienic topics for a young female audience became on top. The description of the world of fashion, its problematic nature, and its criticality were characteristic features of articles in publications.

Besides, one of the fashion magazines was the supplement “Praktyczna Gospodyni”, which was published in Lviv from 1906 to 1914 and was a supplement to the women's and children's fashion magazine. Illustrations of women's and children's clothing with detailed descriptions of the models were published on the magazine's pages. The monthly magazine did not publicize any problematic article. There were eight pages in the magazine, presented in the form of a pattern, and on the first page there was an image of a woman with a child. “Praktyczna Gospodyni” took the form of a spread, well-illustrated pamphlet. The publisher of the Landau magazine focused children's fashion. The main profile of this women's supplement was children's fashion combined with women's salon clothes (Praktyczna Gospodyni, 1907).

The characteristics of the magazine “Praktyczna Gospodyni” as a publication-supplement of fashion changed and underwent Western European influence (Kmiecik, 1980, p. 238), because the magazine distributed samples of European fashion salons among Polish women and children. Western European models of rich clothing were presented, first of all, from Paris salon, but were also sometimes borrowed and popularized among the Viennese fashion salons. Sometimes on the pages of the illustrated magazine, the authors added a short description of the pattern, provided by the main publisher for convenience and so that every Polish milliner could sew such clothes. Children's models dominated among the general models of this women's magazine. In the first column, there were illustrations of either children or a mother with a child, dressed in the latest fashion. The addressees of this illustrated edition were not only wealthy women, but also middle-class women and the intelligentsia - teachers, middle-class women, and sometimes wealthy peasant women. This magazine was popular among tailors, as well as among those who knew tailoring, because the detailed description of tailoring in the magazine was expertly done. The issues of the magazine resembled a small, illustrated book, of a small format (half of an A4 page). The publication was published irregularly - several issues of this magazine were published, and later the publication ceased to exist.

During the period of the interwar twenties, another women's fashion magazine was published, which was of a similar character as the above-mentioned fashion magazines. This edition was “Kobieta w domu i salonie”. The third magazine dedicated to fashion and similar to the previous fashion magazines was the magazine of the interwar twentieth year “Kobieta w domu i salonie”, which focused on “women's affairs” and was a supplement to “Gazety porannej” in 1925” (Historia prasy polskiej. Prasa polska, 1864-1918, p. 124). “Gazety poranna” was an illustrated weekly magazine for the Eastern Kresas. Her application was submitted separately in the columns of the main magazine. The magazine was published regularly. In the title, the entire edition and the addressee are given” (Jarowiecki, 2008, p. 347). The magazine was not intended for rich women. Along with a leading profile of the fashion publication, the second important issue of the magazine was practicality - economic sections for women's domestic work (Dormus, 2016, p. 89). This magazine was of an entertaining character and a light, cheerful tone in many publications.

On the first page, the editors publish the article “Instead of an Introduction - a Conversation” by J.P., in which he moved away from the templates of the construction of women's publications. Instead of an editorial, the editors published a separate section of “Conversations”: “We publish the first issue of a weekly magazine for young ladies. Therefore, it is necessary to start according to tradition with the content and tasks of the magazine. But we don't want to make templates and instead of a boring introduction, we invite you to talk” (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No 1, p. 1). In this material, the editors demonstrated a departure from the general trends in the construction of issues of a women's magazine. The “Conversations” section was close to female readers, because it had a characteristic cheerful, entertaining tone of publications. The traditional sections of this magazine were: “Fashion in Our Country and the Wider World”, which informed readers about fashion news and presented illustrations of women's clothing; hygiene section, which combined articles on the topics of women's health, cosmetics, and appearance care; a business column that printed letters from female readers to the editor and answers-advice, cooking recipes. Feuilletons were often published in the magazine's columns, which gave the magazine a cheerful tone. In Issue 3, an article about the Warsaw theatre was presented, which broke a general, entertaining tone of the publications. It was a long, expertly written article that familiarized the readership with theatrical problems (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No 3). The magazine's columns featured a topic on physical education of women (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No. 6), which aimed at popularizing a healthy lifestyle for women.

On Page 1 of Issue 8, the editors announced that the supplement was a weekly magazine edited by Yanina Kozak-Pelenska. The traditional “Conversation” section of this issue of the magazine promoted the idea of the importance of physical culture. Physical education, hardening of the body - it was the motto under which female education should be popularized. The economic department “Advice and Economic Instructions” was traditional. There were also published feuilletons, articles about an ascetic life of the Polish women. The article “From the Sphere of Fashion” presented the best illustrations of Western European clothing (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No 8).

In Issue 9, the publication published two articles on the history of the women's movement: “The Social Role of the Union of Peasants” and “From Daily Work to Freedom” (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No 10). Articles about the women's movement and political activism were exceptional in the magazine's columns. More and more, the editorial office covered an important issue - trade in live goods, i.e. girls who ended up with pimps because they were looking for a better job. The editors introduce a new section “Wardrobe for Children” (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No 22), which presented the best models of children's clothing and the section “Children's Education”. The publication focused on fashion as the main profile, but in its columns, you can find political articles about women's equality. For example, in the 22nd issue, the editors printed the article “On the Equality of Women in Professional Work”, which raised an important problem - discrimination of women's work and the big difference between women's work and men's work. The difference in professional work was not a simple coincidence, on the contrary, it was a big problem related to the prejudiced attitude of employers towards women's work (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No 22, p. 4).

The editors began to inform their readers about fashion and clothes worn abroad in the column “What Clothes Do the Fashionable Women's World Wear” (Kobieta w domu i salonie, 1925, No. 22, p. 6). It was a section of foreign news, but with detailed descriptions and illustrations of fashionable clothes from Western European women's magazines. After analyzing several issues of this publication-supplement, it can be confidently stated that it was a fashion magazine that was influenced by previous editions, as well as Western European women's magazines. Fashion was the main profile of this magazine, although the topic of women's equality and political activism was no less important.

Another magazine “Mody kobiecy”, which was published in Lviv in 1933, had precisely such sections. “The regularity of the magazine was not determined, but several issues were published. Among the main editorial departments are the following: economic, in which the editors provided answers to the questions of their readers, culinary recipes, a department of informational news of a local nature (it was similar to gossip), as well as a large fashion department. The magazine's fashion section is leading, and political articles are rarely submitted. It occupied a significant part of the publication itself, because it contained the best- illustrated examples of fashionable clothing from various salons and a detailed description of the cut” (Jarowiecki, 2008, p. 237).

The Conclusion

The Polish women's fashion publications: “Mody paryskie” (1895-1902), “Nowe mody paryskie” (1890-1913), “Kobieta w domu i salone” (1925), “Mody kobiecy” (1933), “Praktyczna Gospodyni” have common features:

1. the main profile - fashion;

2. the audience - young women;

3. Western European models of fashionable clothing;

4. artistic and literary articles in the columns of all publications;

5. the political influence of Western European fashion magazines, which was expressed in political publications and the topic of women's equality.

These magazines were the forerunners of today's fashion industry and fashion magazines. They established the tradition of modern fashion publications in Poland. Polish women's fashion magazines focused on European clothing models, although they did not lose their national identity. Women's fashion magazines underwent evolution and transformation: from simple fashion pages to the pages of other publications; from supplements, with an improper design, to magazines of separate, independent publications with well-illustrated clothing supplements, political, problematic articles. An important feature of these magazines was their popularization of men's clothing and the Polish folk clothing; samples of embroidered fabrics, children's clothes, fashionable shirts, embroidered in a new way. These magazines were published in color, bright (women's magazines were published in black and white). In addition to the main profile of the publication - fashion, magazines published a large number of articles on political topics; as well as articles about theatres, art, and culture, which shows, however, that journalists tried to form an aesthetic taste in their audience, to cultivate love of beauty, and to form an active and politically conscious woman. Femininity, aesthetics, beauty are the main features of Polish women's fashion magazines at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries, which were published in Lviv and other European cities.

Bibliography

1. Dormus, K. (2016). Krakowskie gimnazja zenskie przelomu XIX i XX wieku [Krakow Girls' High Schools at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries] Studia Paedagogica Ignatiana. November, 87-103.

2. Dormus, K. (2006). Problematyka wychowawczo-oswiatowa w prasie kobiecej zaboru austriackiego w latach 1826-1918 [Upbringing and Educational Issues in the Women's Press of the Austrian Partition in the years 1826 - 1918]. Warszawa. [in Polish]

3. Dormus, K. (2019). Profilaktyka zdrowotna w gimnazjach zenskich okresu mizdzywojennego [Health prevention in girls' high schools in the interwar period] Sejm Nauczycielski i inicjatywy edukacyjne Drugiej Rzeczypospolitej. January, 183-200.

4. Dormus, K. (2020). The Directions of Changes in the Secondary Comprehensive School System for Girls within the Polish Territories During the Partitions Period and the II Republic of Poland. Czech-Polish Historical and Pedagogical Journal, 12/1, 167-177.

5. Dormus, K. (2019). The Subject of Girls' Education in School Reforms from the National Education Commission to World War II. Biuletyn Historii Wychowania. November, 99-115.

6. Dormus, K. (2019). Wqtek ksztalcenia dziewczqt w reformach szkolnych od czasow Komisji Edukacji Narodowej do II wojny swiatowe. [The Topic of Girls' Education in School Reforms from the Times of the National Education Commission to World War II]. Biuletyn Historii Wychowania. February, 23-39.

7. Franke, J. (1999). Polskaprasa kobieca w latach 1820 -1918. Wkrugu ofiary ³poswigcenia [Polish Women's Press in the years 1820-1918. In the Circle of the Victim and the Devoted]. Warszawa. [in Polish]

8. Historia prasy polskiej. (1976). Historia prasy polskiej. Prasapolska (1864-1918) [History of the Polish Press. Polish Press (1864-1918)], (vol. 3). Warszawa: Panstwowe wydawnictwo naukowe. [in Polish]

9. Jarowiecki, J. (2008). Dzieje prasy poskiej we Lwowie do 1945 roku [The History of the Polish Press in Lviv until 1945]. Krakow-Wroclaw. [in Polish]

10. Kmiecik, Z. (1980). Prasa polska w rewolucji 1905 - 1907. [The Polish Press in the Revolution of 1905-1907]. Warszawa. [in Polish]

11. Kobieta w domu i salonie [Woman at home and living room]. (1925). 1. [in Polish]

12. Kobieta w domu i salonie [Woman at home and living room]. (1925). 8. [in Polish]

13. Kobieta w domu i salonie [Woman at home and living room]. (1925). 22. [in Polish]

14. Mody Paryskie. [Paris Fashions]. (1895). 1 grudnia. [in Polish]

15. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1890). 1. [in Polish]

16. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1890). 15. [in Polish]

17. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1890). 25. [in Polish]

18. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1890). 26. [in Polish]

19. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1890). 27. [in Polish]

20. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1891). 1. [in Polish]

21. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1890). 4. [in Polish]

22. Nowe Mody Paryskie. [New Paris Fashions]. (1891). 6. [in Polish]

23. Praktyczna Gospodyni. [Practical Housewife]. 1907. [in Polish]

24. Zalewska, Z. (1938). Czasopisma kobiece w Polsce (Materialy do historii czasopism rok 1818-1937) [Women's Magazines in Poland (Materials for the History of Magazines 1818-1937)]. Warszawa. [in Polish]

Ðàçìåùåíî íà Allbest.Ru