Research of Ukrainian fashion industry goods consumers

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^1,2,3Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design

⁴Modern Art Research Institute National Academy of Arts of Ukraine

Research of Ukrainian fashion industry goods consumers

¹Pashkevych K.L., ²Kryvonis N.А.,

³Vyshnevska М.О., ⁴Rogotchenko O.O.



Abstract

Purpose. To analyze the classifications of modern fashion consumers in accordance with current realities of the fashion industry market for clothing design.

Methodology. The systematic approach to the chosen object of research has been used; the analytical-typological and comparative methods have been applied. The research contains a critical analysis of publications on selected topics and is based on a sociological survey and statistical processing of data.

Results. An overview of modern studies has allowed to characterize the behavior of fashion industry consumers and to classify them according to different criteria.

The factors influencing the decision of consumers about fashion goods purchasing, the classification of clothing consumers have been analyzed and the purchasing behavior of Ukrainian women as consumers of fashion goods has been investigated.

A survey has been conducted in order to study the typology of Ukrainian consumers of fashion industry products. As a result of the survey, it has been found that Ukrainian women buy fashion goods mainly for aesthetic reasons, firstly considering the products design; clothing is a tool for them to look stylish, express themselves and stand out among others.

Most women buy clothes in multi-branded shopping malls, and online shopping for fashion goods over the Internet is not popular among Ukrainian women. Ukrainians prefer fashion clothes of foreign manufacturers, only occasionally buying home-made products.

Scientific novelty. The motives and behavioral patterns of fashion industry consumers have been investigated, the factors influencing the purchase decision have been determined, the main characteristics of Ukrainian fashion industry consumers for clothes design have been determined.

Practical significance. Modern consumers of fashion industry market have been characterized, the attitude of Ukrainian clothing consumers to shopping and fashion has been determined. The research results can be used to teach subjects related to the theory of fashion and fashion industry.

Keywords: fashion industry, clothing consumers, fashion, consumer behavior, consumer classification.



Introduction

Modern fashion is a multibillion industry that is rapidly developing in many countries around the world. It reflects the state of development of society and the culture of the country as a whole, and according to consumers, fashion, in particular, clothing and accessories, is an integral part of modern man's life [4].

The growth of the consumers' role in the fashion of the XX century intensified in the XXI century, which radically changed the image of fashion. In our time, design of clothing implies a preliminary comprehensive study of the needs and characteristics of fashion products consumers to meet consumer demand.

Selecting a target audience and analyzing its needs is one of the main marketing stages in the formation of concepts, assortment, stylistic and color decisions of commercial collections. The analysis of consumer behavior in the fashion industry aims at identifying and forecasting their needs, identifying the factors influencing the purchase, identifying the most popular algorithms for selling goods, describing the decision-making process by consumers during the purchase, and determining the attitude of potential consumers to fashion. In addition, this knowledge provides an opportunity to create effective advertising programs, to develop an appropriate PR policy to promote the product.

Fashion is a socio-cultural phenomenon, which involves all spheres of human life. In the context of the study, clothing, footwear and accessories are considered as the main products of the fashion industry and as a means to satisfy people's need to look in a certain way and create a certain image.

The problem of studying consumer preferences in the field of clothing choices has not yet received a thorough examination and justification in the garment industry. The urgency of this topic is that now there is no shortage of fashionable clothing, and that the products of fashion industry garment manufacture are needed by consumers; it is necessary to take into account the wishes and inclination of consumers, to conduct marketing researches, to introduce the fashion management. Clothes need not only to be made, but also to be sold with a profit, therefore research of motivation and behavior of clothing consumers is topical and necessary in the world and in Ukraine, because consumer preferences of the population can be used as the initial information when designing fashion industry goods.

It is known that during the design of industrial clothing collections the forecasting of consumer demand is of particular importance. The garment manufacture plans its activities and determines the prospects of development, based on the demand for its products.

Consumer demand affects the decision on the release of specific products and the formation of assortment, therefore, for the successful operation of the enterprise the information about the benefits of consumers should be used, as well as the knowledge of peculiarities of various factors influence on the choice of clothing, and fashion market segmental division.

This problem is solved by analyzing modern fashion trends, promising materials and innovations in the textile industry, as well as studying the typology of consumers by gender and size, types of activities, preferences in clothing, and behavior when buying fashion goods.

Analysis of previous research. The area of consumer behavior in the fashion industry is at the crossroads of many disciplines: marketing, psychology [17, 21], fashion psychology [19], sociology [25], economics and business [24], etc. The interest of psychologists in the behavior of fashion industry consumers is due to the need to explore mechanisms that affect the purchase of goods not because of its consumer characteristics, but for reasons of aesthetics, status and desire of the person to stand out.

The study of consumer behavior in the fashion industry is being pursued in the following areas: motives and behavioral mechanisms of consumers [9, 19], decision making process [25], planned and impulsive purchases [4, 11], factors influencing purchase decisions [1, 4, 5, 11], psychological determinism in the choice of clothing [19], consumer classification [9], assessment of the quality of goods in the fashion industry [8], the study of fashion process participants [2, 24], gender aspects of fashion goods consumption [21], etc. Researchers note particular attention to the study of prestige brand clothing consumption [19]. In particular, Chinese and American researchers are studying the peculiarities of luxury fashion goods consumption [3, 7].

It should be noted that in connection with the online trade expansion, scientific studies that cover various aspects of this phenomenon are gaining in popularity, in particular with regard to the psychology of fashion goods consumption: the advantages and disadvantages of online stores compared to traditional ones, factors affecting the decision to buy it in online stores, etc. [1, 5].

The gender differences in the fashion goods consumption are actively studied [1, 7, 25]. The question of the influence of a trademark (brand) on the choice of one or another fashion product is also quite widely represented in scientific literature [7, 8]. However, today in scientific circles there are such open issues as the lack of intercultural studies in the field of fashion, as well as personal characteristics of consumption [19].

The works of domestic researchers are mainly focused on the following aspects: the principles of forming collection assortment [23], segmentation of fashion clothing lines in the structure of fashion industry [24], mass consumption of fashion goods [2]. In particular, in the last work the author deals with marketing and advertising in fashion, studying fashion products as an economic category.

Today, the study of the phenomenon of consumption is also conducted in the field of economic psychology with the gradual coverage of new areas - anthropology, cross- cultural spheres, etc. It is also noted that the explanation of the consumption phenomenon is not popular for economic reasons [25], because nowadays the satisfaction of clothing consumers depends not only on the functional, but also on the psychological aspects [8].

Setting objectives. It will require further study and systematization of the classification of Ukrainian fashion industry consumers, studying the peculiarities of the fashion process participants' behavior, depending on the influence of various factors on them. Since the modern design process of designing new clothing patterns is primarily based on consumer needs, the purpose of the article is to study consumers in the field of fashion and their behavior when choosing and buying fashion goods. The study provides coverage of the following issues: motives and behavioral patterns of consumer fashion industry; factors influencing the purchase decision;definition of the attitude to the fashion of Ukrainian fashion goods consumers.



Research results

It is known that clothing belongs to the most symbolic and presentation category; it is a tool for nonverbal communication of a person, a way to express one's perception, a lifestyle, a social status, to demonstrate a taste and to emphasize an image. Researchers agree that clothing is being worn in public places to demonstrate to others [7, 20]. Because of this, fashion usually applies only to those products that can be used demonstratively.

An important feature of fashion products consumption is that the choice of clothing is often based on the brand identity, its own image and the popularity of the goods. Researchers are convinced that if the fashion did not change, people would not buy things and accessories so often. The change of fashion provides the activity of a powerful industry, distributor and communication systems to ensure the circulation of goods. Huge marketing departments, advertising and PR work closely to increase the sales of brand products.

Consumption of goods in fashion industry is inextricably linked with the concept of a fashion product life cycle. 5 stages of a fashion product life cycle should be defined: the presentation, the growth of popularity, the peak of popularity, decline in popularity and rejection.

The fashion product life cycle is quite similar to the life cycle of other products, but there are some differences. For example, the success of clothing in the market can quickly change depending on the quality of the product and the mood of society, in contrast to other goods, where the success is more stable. In addition, some fashionable goods can gain popularity quickly and just as quickly go out of fashion, while others for a long time remain popular.

The following types of fashion products life cycle are distinguished: the usual (the most common) - about two seasons, short - the product spreads and disappears very quickly due to young people and innovators, but does not spread to the broad masses and fades away; long cycle - clothes of classical style, which for a long time is not out of fashion; a double or repetitive cycle - the product goes out of fashion and after a short period of time becomes popular again with possible changes and adaptations [13]. It is known that the design of fashion clothing is aimed at satisfying the needs of consumers. Modern designers understand that when creating clothes is not enough to be guided by fashion trends and intuition: it is necessary to have current information about consumers. The most well-known classification of consumers in the field of fashion is the classification of E. Rogers and A. Hoffmann [16], which is based on the degree of the individual's activity in a fashion process. Researchers divide consumers to innovators (2.5%), early followers (13.5%), early majority (34%), late majority (34%) and retarded (16%).

Specialists in PR and marketing in their practice use the classification in accordance with the principle of consumption prestige. Consumers of fashionable goods are divided into three groups:

Group 1 - based on the dynamics of the fashion object popularity growth ;

Group 2 - aspire to be radically different from the mass consumer;

Group 3 - for whom the degree of a fashion product prestige is determined by its price.

The disadvantage of this classification is the lack of consumer types list and the inability to investigate other factors that motivate people to buy clothes.

Goldsmith R. E. and Clark R. A. [6] distinguish two types of fashion consumers according to the way of thinking: fashion leaders and those who depend on the others' point of view when choose clothing. The authors note that the consumption of expensive things is characteristic of both types of consumers, while the indifferent attitude to clothing is not characteristic of any of the types. Therefore, the classification characterizes only a part of consumers, excluding those who are indifferent to fashion and clothing.

Classification of consumers based on purchasing motivation is to be noted [4], which was created to train staff to work with customers at women's clothing retail stores. The disadvantage of the typology is the lack of connection with the consumer's attitude to fashion. An important factor in the process of choosing clothes is the level of payment capacity of consumers. The paper [9] presents the consumer classification, which shows how the level of financial opportunities varies the priorities and preferences of customers: consumers who buy expensive fashionable goods by their preferences; those who value taste, functionality and cultural and aesthetic value of goods; those who use the general fashion, choosing the best value for money.

Researchers argue that the buyer is simultaneously influenced by a variety of factors, and therefore he/she behaves differently in different situations. They divide brand clothing consumers into groups according to their behavior:

1. A particular group of consumers, who are loyal to the brand and usually satisfied with the latest purchased goods or brand.

2. A cognitive group of consumers, which operates mainly on the basis of prices comparison or other economic component.

3. A group of clients who emphasize the quality of products: design, style, material.

4. A group of customers who buy fashionable products according to their aesthetic and functional properties.

5. Impulsive consumer group - buying things based on the physical characteristics of products, not brand-based products.

6. A group of emotional consumers who react to product symbols and tend to be exposed to images.

7. A group of new consumers who have not yet stabilized their behavior [10].

This classification is the most complete, because it takes into account the various factors that influence the choice of clothing and decision making on the purchase. The general classification of consumers according to various criteria proposed by different authors is given in Fig. 1.



Fig. 1. Classification of fashion industry goods consumers

The conducted theoretical analysis has made it possible to highlight the following main motives for the purchase of clothing: the need for dominance, comfort, research of novelties (interest in new ones), satisfaction, belonging to a certain social group, economy, security, etc.

In connection with the economic and cultural development of society, today's consumer trends are influenced by general trends. Due to the markets globalization, the range of products available to the population is growing as fast as the ability for the people to make all new decisions in a fashionable process. Knowledge of consumers helps designers, marketers and other professionals involved in the creation and distribution of fashion products, to formulate and improve the range of products, to understand consumer requirements for goods, to predict the demand for one or another product, and to create effective campaigns for promotion of clothing on the market.

Scientists also pay attention to social factors that can influence the behavior of consumers in the fashion industry and distinguish objective and subjective factors. Socio-objective factors include the following ones: socio-demographic structure of the population; income and purchasing power of the population; product characteristics. Socio- subjective factors include the following ones: needs, values, consumer settings, social and cultural norms, traditions, level of awareness, past experience [15]. It is known that fashion significantly influences the tastes of buyers and their behavior. There are three types of processes for the fashion goods purchase in accordance with the degree of fashion influence [9]:

High impact on the purchase: the consumer is influenced by fashion designers, often copying the style of public, popular people and quickly decides to buy a new item. consumer fashion industry ukraine women

Medium influence on the purchase: the buyer hesitates, but has a desire to own the goods. Despite the fact that the consumer is studying and testing clothes, he/she quickly makes a decision on the purchase.

Low impact on the purchase. In case when consumers think rationally on the basis of psychological, social, economic, financial factors, fashion impacts them insignificantly. They collect a lot of information, actively acquire the knowledge of fashion, carefully study the findings and considerably decide on the purchase. This approach takes the most time among the above.

The behavior of fashion goods consumers has its peculiarities depending on gender, which is accented by almost all researchers of consumers in the field of fashion. When designing clothing, it should be taken into account that women are the largest segment of clothing consumers because they often buy things for their husbands, children and other loved ones [8]. Women are more active in purchasing, regardless of what and for whom they are buying.

The result of the study [3] shows that men consider the purchase of fashionable goods purely for women, and this is the main reason for their passivity in the purchase of clothing. According to [1], for women, when purchasing in online stores, price is a more important factor, when for men - the speed of purchase and the comfort of clothing. It is also noted that women are more likely to choose clothes for aesthetic reasons and neglect the comfort of clothing for the sake of being able to impress others, while men are usually guided by their own preferences and choose not only fashionable, but also comfortable clothes. It is also noted that for most women, the final choice of fashionable clothing is accompanied by an increase in emotional tone, while the psychological state of men is characterized as emotional-cognitive or restrained-cautious [18]. To find out the peculiarities of Ukrainian consumers' behaviour, 385 women aged 20 to 40, participated in the study, including: students (29.5%), representatives of creative jobs (25.5%), information technology (13%), science and education (9.5%), business (10%), service sectors, etc. The income level of respondents is predominantly (90%) from 6000 to 20,000 UAH per month.

The results of the survey showed that most Ukrainian women, regardless of profession, choose clothes of classical style (43%) (Figure 2).

Fig. 2. Results of Ukrainian women survey as fashion goods consumers

Sport and romantic style are preferred by 24.5% and 20.5% of women respectively, ethnic style - by 7%. It has been found out that for most women fashion is the ability to look stylish and in line with current trends (39.5%) and the means to express themselves through clothing, stand out among others (33%). For 12% of the surveyed, fashion is an opportunity to entertain and diversify everyday life, while 11% of respondents believe that fashion is an instrument of making money, because fashion encourages us to buy new things everywhere. Also, 4.5% of the respondents consider fashion as an opportunity to emphasize their belonging to a particular subculture.

Based on the data obtained, we can state that the influence of fashion on the purchasing behavior of modern Ukrainian women is rather high. Ukrainians tend to look stylish and relevant, express themselves through clothes and stand out among others. That is why when choosing fashion clothes the most significant factor for them is the design, comfort is in the second place, and the third is the quality of goods. Within the selected clothing segment, the least important factor affecting the purchase of goods is the price.

Ukrainian women usually buy fashion clothes at multi-branded shopping centers (53%), the Internet (17.5%), the market (17%) and branded clothing stores (11.5%). The most popular shopping channels through the Internet are multi-branded online stores and the Instagram social network (40 and 34.5% respectively). Among women surveyed, a half is buying clothes rationally, that is, what was planned and needed, and the other half usually makes purchases emotionally. The research also showed that the majority of Ukrainian women favor fashion clothing from foreign producers (67.5%). Often, 20,5% of the surveyed, buy things from domestic producers. As the respondents note, despite

the variety of fashion clothes on the shelves of stores, it is often difficult for them to pick up quality basic things, pants, skirts, outerwear, and clothing for tall and short, things of high quality natural fabrics, stylish, unusual and at the same time budget clothes.



Conclusions

To systematize consumer information and predict their behavior, a number of classifications that differ from each other by the criteria that are used as the basis (gender, age, income level, activity in the fashion process, attitude to clothing, motivation for purchase, etc.) have been analyzed. It has been revealed that the main factors influencing fashion industry consumers behavior are: design of products, their relevance and compatibility with fashion trends, quality, comfort, price, satisfaction with the purchasing process, etc. As a result of the survey, it has been found that Ukrainian women buy fashion goods mainly for aesthetic reasons, considering in the first place the design of the products; for them, clothing serves as a tool to look stylish and relevant, to express themselves and stand out among others. The Internet as a channel for purchasing fashion goods for Ukrainian women is not popular today, most women buy clothes in multiband shopping centers. Ukrainians prefer fashion clothes of foreign manufacturers, only occasionally buying home-made items. Despite the fact that the Ukrainian market is rich in fashion industry goods from many countries, most women are dissatisfied with the quality, size and range of goods presented. The conducted research shows that in the near future high quality clothing of the original constructive solution will be in demand, and will remain relevant for a long time. Prospects for further research are the definition of the attitude towards fashion of Ukrainian men as consumers of fashion goods and the development of the classification of clothing consumers, depending on the psychological and social characteristics.



Література

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22. Soryna, E., Soryna, N., Korobtseva, N., Petrova, E. (2002). lazyk odezhdy, ili Kak poniat cheloveka po ego odezhde [Language of clothing, or how to understand a person by his clothes]. Moscow, Hnom-press [in Russian].

23. Frolov, I.V., Kolosnichenko, M.V., Pashkevych, K.L. (2015). Osoblyvosti rozrobky brendu v umovakh suchasnoi ukrainskoi fashion-industrii [Features of brand development in the conditions of modern Ukrainian fashion industry]. Tradytsii ta novatsii u vyshchii arkhitekturno-khudozhnii osviti - Traditions and innovations in higher architectural and artistic education, 3, 100--105 [in Ukrainian].

24. Chupryna, N.V. (2015). Analiz deiatelnosti uchastnikov modnogo protcessa v usloviiakh industrii mody [Analysis of the participants in the fashion process in the fashion industry]. Tekhnolohyia tekstylnoi promyshlennosty -- Technology of textile industry, 2, 95--98 [in Russian].

25. Shaidakova, N.V. (2013). Gendernye aspekty psikhologii potrebitelskogo povedeniia: analiz zhenskogo «demonstrativnogo potrebleniia» [Gender aspects of the psychology of consumer behavior: analysis of female "demonstrative consumption"]. Ekonomicheskaia sotciologiia i psikhologiia - Economic Sociology and psychology, 2013. 49--52 [in Russian].



Анотація

Дослідження українських споживачів товарів фешн-індустрії

¹Пашкевич К.Л., ²Кривоніс Н.О., ³Вишневська М.О., ⁴Роготченко О.О.

^1,2,3Київський національний університет технологій та дизайну

⁴Інститут проблем сучасного мистецтва Національної академії мистецтв України

Мета. Проаналізувати класифікації сучасних споживачів сфери моди відповідно до нинішніх реалій ринку модної індустрії для цілей проектування одягу.

Методика. Використано системний підхід до обраного об'єкту дослідження, застосовано аналітико-типологічний та порівняльний методи. Дослідження містить критичний аналіз публікацій з обраної тематики, ґрунтується на соціологічному опитувані, статистичній обробці даних.

Результати. Огляд сучасних досліджень дав змогу охарактеризувати особливості поведінки споживачів модної індустрії та подати їх класифікації за різними критеріями. Виявлено чинники, що впливають на рішення споживачів про покупки модних товарів, проаналізовано класифікації споживачів одягу та досліджено купівельну поведінку українських жінок як споживачів модних товарів. Проведено анкетне опитування з метою вивчення типології українських споживачів товарів модної індустрії.

В результаті анкетного опитування встановлено, що українські жінки купують модні товари переважно з естетичних міркувань зважаючи в першу чергу на дизайн виробів; одяг є для них інструментом виглядати стильно, виражати власне «Я» та виділятися поміж інших.

Більшість жінок купують одяг в мультибрендових торгівельних центрах, а он-лайн покупки модних товарів через мережу Інтернет не є популярними серед українських жінок. Українки надають перевагу модному одягу зарубіжних виробників, лише іноді купуючи вітчизняні вироби. Наукова новизна. Досліджено мотиви та поведінкові механізми споживачів модної індустрії, визначено чинники, що впливають на рішення про покупку, встановлено основні характеристики українських споживачів модної індустрії для цілей дизайн-проектування одягу.

Практична значущість. Охарактеризовано сучасних споживачів ринку модної індустрії, визначено ставлення українських споживачів одягу до покупок та до моди. Результати досліджень можуть бути використані під час викладання дисциплін,

Ключові слова; індустрія моди, споживачі одягу, мода, поведінка споживачів, класифікація споживачів.



Аннотация

Исследование украинских потребителей товаров фешн-индустрия

¹ Пашкевич К. Л., ²Кривонос Н. А., ³Вишневская М. А., ⁴Роготченко А. А.

^12,3Киевский национальный университет технологий и дизайна

⁴Институт проблем современного искусства Национальной академии искусств Украины

Цель. Проанализировать классификации современных потребителей сферы моды в соответствии с нынешними реалиями рынка модной индустрии для целей проектирования одежды.

Методика. Использованы системный подход к выбранному объекту исследования, аналитико-типологический и сравнительный методы. Исследование содержит критический анализ публикаций по выбранной тематике, основывается на социологическом опросе, статистической обработке данных.

Результаты. Обзор современных исследований дал возможность охарактеризовать особенности поведения потребителей модной индустрии и дать их классификации по разным критериям. Определены факторы, которые влияют на решение потребителей о покупках модных товаров, проанализированы классификации потребителей одежды и исследовано покупательское поведение украинских женщин как потребителей модных товаров. Проведен анкетный опрос с целью изучения типологии украинских потребителей товаров модной индустрии.

В результате анкетного опроса установлено, что украинские женщины покупают модные товары преимущественно из эстетических соображений, обращая внимание в первую очередь на дизайн изделия; одежда является для них инструментом выглядеть стильно, выражать собственное «Я» и выделяться между другими. Большинство женщин покупают одежду в мультибрендовых торговых центрах, а он-лайн покупки модных товаров через сеть Интернет не являются популярными среди украинских женщин. Украинки предпочитают модную одежду зарубежных производителей, лишь иногда покупая отечественные изделия.

Научная новизна. Исследованы мотивы и поведенческие механизмы потребителей модной индустрии, определены факторы, которые влияют на решение о покупке, установлены основные характеристики украинских потребителей модной индустрии для целей дизайн-проектирование одежды.

Практическая значимость. Охарактеризованы современные потребители рынка модной индустрии, определено пов'язаних з теорією моди та фешн-індустрією отношение украинских потребителей одежды к покупкам и к моде.

Результаты исследований могут быть использованы с целью преподавания дисциплин, связанных с теорией моды и фешн-индустрией.

Ключевые слова; индустрия моды, потребители одежды, мода, поведение потребителей, классификация потребителей.

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