Features of measurable data used for appearance color type definition in hairstyle design

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Department of Technologies and Design Kyiv National University of Culture and Arts

Features of measurable data used for appearance color type definition in hairstyle design

Olena Savitska Postgraduate

Kyiv, Ukraine

The concept of color in hairstyle design in the context of scientific problems remains an insufficiently covered and relevant topic due to the narrow direction of the color specificity. Clarification of the peculiarities of choosing the color scheme variants remains an up-to-date issue and the concept of color types in a hair designer practice, which is an integral tool of color usage in character/image creation, need to be explicated.

The existing theoretical and practical approaches to the use of color combinations in clothes, make-up, and hairstyle based on the color types of the appearance have been explored in the research publications of such foreign authors as V. Henderson and P. Henshaw, C. Jackson, B. Lied, D. Pooser, L. Schneider, C. Spenser, G. Watermann and F. Zingel [1 -6], the use of color combinations in the concept of hairstyle design have been examined in the works of such Ukrainian researchers as S. Lubianska and O. Savitska [7,8].

The formation of the color types system is based on the determination of the initial data of a person: eye color, skin tone, natural hair color. Definition of the color range of a specific person, which is used in the individual style creation in clothes, hairstyle, makeup, is performed according to the "appearance color types" system features.

The statement that the definition of a person's color type should be performed within the limits of natural indicators is losing its relevance due to the fact that many products capable of changing the color of skin, eyes, and hair have appeared in the modern use. The hair designer determines the direction of work, needed for accomplishment of real results of the person's color type measurement, which may include: the natural color type definition in order to optimize the measurable characteristics and color palette or a new artificial color type creation by changing some measurable features.

The lightness (dark; medium; light), color direction and undertone of the skin should be identified during the skin color definition.

Skin tone can be advantageously emphasized and the imperfections can be hidden with the help of the right hair color selection, and vice versa, the general impression can be disharmonious due to an unsuccessful color selection. For example, such imperfections as inflamed skin or the presence of a vascular network will be emphasize by the use of shades of red, and on the contrary, the use of opposite colors will help to mask them.

Since the color of the eyes can contain several shades at the same time - dominant and additional shade (or more than one additional), it is necessary to define the main shade and lightness, by which light, medium and dark eyes are distinguished - warm, warm-cold or cold tones.

A detail emphasizing and increasing the expressiveness of the eyes can be created with the help of an additional hair shade. The rule that the darker the hair in relation to the color of the eyes, the lighter they look and, conversely, the lighter the hair, the darker the eyes look should not be neglected to avoid disharmony.

The variables caused by colored lenses and the long-term perspective of their usage should be taken into account during the color type definition, as well as previous results need to be reconsidered in case of contact lenses refusal. One-time short-term use of colored lenses should not be taken into account; the color type is determined by the natural color or available cosmetic color in such case.

Focus should be on the natural color of the hair or the color of the grown roots (if there is a cosmetic dye) during the natural color type definition. Determination of the color type can be implemented not according to the hidden, but according to the available characteristics in the case of the artificial (cosmetic) dye presence and the designer has no desire to define the natural color type of a certain person. The results also need to be reconsidered in case of natural color restoration.

Hair is divided by lightness into dark, medium and light, it has a color direction (primary shade) and an undertone (secondary shade), according to which there are: warm, cold, warm-cold (neutral or balanced) tones.

Thus, evaluation and comparison of features of the measurable data (tone depth, colorfulness and brightness) is a necessary tool in the person's color type definition, which ensures the correct direction of the designer's work in a whole harmonious character/image creation.

The designer must consider a number of characteristics during selection of a hairstyle and color solution for a certain model, taking into account not only hair, but also anthropometric features, age, general color type, personal peculiarities, style.

The colors in hairstyles are often associated with character peculiarities, for example, blondes are considered to be gentle and romantic, redheads - cunning and tricky, brunettes - restrained and responsible. Such approach to color usage based on the client's wishes often gives a negative result. Dyeing the hair of the older age group in the colors from 1 to 3 TDL (tone depth level) also often gives an undesirable result due to the appearance of a rough and strong color contrast with the skin of the face. The statement that blonde hair suits everyone with age is false, because in many cases the "fusion effect" of hair with skin color took place. Experiments on changing the hair color without the right approaches often end up in hair re-dyeing and remain in the range of harmful and destructive factors for the hair and image in general.

It is necessary to observe a number of rules to obtain a hairstyle with a color solution that is harmonious in relation to the common perception of the image in general when determining the color type, with orientation to a certain color scale. For example, an incorrectly selected color will not form a balance with color of the eyes and skin, which will lead to the impression of untidiness or disharmony. The level of contrast of the hair to the skin should be taken into account during the change of color for more than 2 TDL, both in increasing and decreasing levels, because such a difference can give the impression that the hairstyle capture all the attention, and will be perceived disharmoniously. As well, the "fusion effect" of the hair color with skin tone can occur. Such specifics can be avoided by introducing separate curls into the hairstyle near the face, which can help to achieve the effect of "illumination" or "contrast". The main thing in this process is to obtain the harmonious combination of the selected shade with eye color and skin tone.

The process of hair dyeing, according to the practice of hair dyeing carried out by modern means, should begin with the definition of the color type, the analysis of the client's color derivatives, which will ensure the correct development of the design project, its final results, and ensure the harmonious combination of skin, eye and hair color. hairstyle design color

The rule that in most cases in order to assess and specify the color type of a person the available colors, and not hidden ones need to be taken into account must be strictly followed considering the possible options the person color type definition; a short-term temporary change of one or more specifics, which does not require the variable factors consideration, but need the natural indicators of the color type to be kept for a harmonious image creation, may be an exception to this rule.

References

1. Henderson, V., & Henshaw, P. (2006). Color Me Confident: Change Your Look - Change Your Life! London, England: Hamlyn/Octopus Books.

2. Jackson, C. (1987). Color Me Beautiful. New York, NY: The Random House Publishing Group.

3. Lied, B. (1993). Das groe Schnheitsbuch. Die ganz persnliche Farb-, Stil- und Typberatung fr Sie und Ihn. Munchen, Deutchland: Mary Hahn Verlag.

4. Pooser, D. (1992). Secrets of Style: Your Personal Profile: Style, Bodyline, Wardrobe, Color, Hair, Make-Up. Maryland, US: Crisp Pub. Inc.

5. Schneider, L. (1997). Die Grosse Farb- und Typberatung. Mode, Muster, Farben, Frisuren, Make-up, Schmuck, Accessoires und Dufte fur jeden Typ. Munchen, Deutchland: Sudwest Verlag.

6. Spenser's, C. (2001). Style Directions for Women Paperback. London, England: Piatkus Books.

7. Watermann, G., & Zingel, F. (1997). Die neue Farbberatung. freundin. Der groBe Ratgeber. Mode. Make-up. Haare. Muster. Materialien. Falken-Vlg., Niedernh.

8. Lubianska, S. P. (2010). Dyzain zachisky: Navchalnyi posibnyk. [Hairstyle design: study aid]. Kyiv, Ukraine: Kondor [in Ukrainian].

9. Savitska, O.V. (2019, April 18-19). Kolorove kolo Yokhannesa Ittena ta yoho zastosuvannia u suchasnomu dyzaini zachisky. [Johannes Itten's color wheel and its application in modern hairstyle design.] Vseukrainska naukovo-praktychna konferentsiia «100 rokiv suchasnosti: idei Bauhauz ta ukrainskoho avanhardu u suchasnomu dyzaini ta dyzain-osviti». Kyivskyi natsionalnyi universytet kultury ta mystetstv. [The all-Ukrainian scientific and practical conference "100 years of modernity: Bauhaus and Ukrainian avant-garde ideas in modern design and design education". Kyiv National University of Culture and Arts. ]. Kyiv, Ukraine: KNUCA. pp. 114-119. [in Ukrainian].

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