Efficiency of the heating system of passive solar houses

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Department of Railway Engineering Tashkent State Transport University

Efficiency of the heating system of passive solar houses

Kakharov Z.V. Associate Professor

Islomov A.S. Assistant of the department "Construction mechanics"

Uzbekistan Tashkent

Abstract

This article explores solar energy efficiency as the best way to keep your home warm in winter. The technology of using passive and active solar energy for heating residential buildings is given.

Keywords: passive and active solar heating, direct and indirect heating, heating. solar energy heating thermal

Using solar energy is the best way to keep your home warm in winter. There are two methods of solar heating - passive solar heating and active solar heating. There are 2 main ways for passive solar houses to receive solar energy: direct heating; indirect heating.

Directly heated houses, considered the simplest types, are heated through south-facing windows called solar windows. They can be in the form of traditional opening or blind windows on the south side of the house, or standard insulating glass panels in the wall of a greenhouse or solarium. While some of the heat is used immediately, walls, floors, ceilings and furniture store excess heat radiated into the space day and night. In all cases, the efficiency of the system and the comfort of a direct heated room will increase with increasing thermal mass (concrete, concrete blocks, bricks) placed within that room.

It is preferable to place the thermal mass in the direct sunlight path (radiative heating), but the mass placed outside it (air convection heating) is also important for the overall efficiency of the system. The heat storage mass is 4 times more efficient when it is in the path of direct sunlight and transfers its heat to convection air currents than when it is only heated by convection currents.

The recommended ratio between the surface areas of the heat storage mass and the south-facing glazing. In general, the comfort and efficiency of a solar heating system increase with increasing thermal mass and there is no upper limit to its amount.

That coatings placed on top of the thermal mass made of materials such as: carpets, cork, fiberboard, will effectively isolate the thermal mass from incoming solar energy, making it difficult to accumulate it. Materials such as ceramic floor tiles or bricks are a much better choice for flooring that receives direct sunlight. Tiles must be laid on cement mortar for full thermal contact with the substrate, and not glued in spots. In a thermal mass exposed to direct solar radiation, the surface area is of primary importance, so thin heat-storing plates are more effective than thick ones. The most effective thickness for a concrete heat storage slab is 100mm, increasing the thickness beyond 150mm is pointless.

The most effective thickness for wood is 25 mm. The most effective location of the thermal mass between two rooms, which receives direct solar radiation, because. in this case, the heat storage wall absorbs solar heat on both surfaces.

Light weight objects and surfaces coated with low density materials should be light in color to reflect solar radiation onto high density materials. If more than half of the wall area in the space where the direct solar radiation, have a large mass, then they should be light colors. If the heat-storing mass is concentrated in a single wall, then that wall should be dark in color, but if its surface is oriented in such a way that sunlight falls on it in the early morning, then its color should be light in order to scatter light and warmth into the rest of the room. Massive floors should be dark in color to store heat.

In northern climates, movable thermal insulation in the form of draperies, panels, interior shutters, and voluminous curtains are often used to reduce heat loss through glazing on cold winter nights. Due to the fact that a significant amount of sunlight is reflected in the summer from the south-facing vertical glazing, the heat gain is not as great in the summer and cantilevered shading eaves are not as necessary as early passive solar designers thought.

Due to the fact that good visibility is maintained through the glazing, this technique is most appropriate where there are pleasant views of the surrounding nature through south-facing glazing. Some people dislike the dazzling sunlight present in rooms with direct solar heating, in addition, it leads to fading of upholstery and drapery fabrics. The problem is also that if the residents of the house can see everything that happens outside, then the entire interior of the dwelling is visible from the outside.

In addition to providing warmth in the winter, a well-designed passive solar home should keep you cool and well ventilated in the summer. In some areas, there is a persistent myth, propagated through the media and from the designs of some of the first early passive solar houses, that overheating during the summer is common in buildings of this type.

Architects and builders have found that a two-height greenhouse attached to the house, with opening ventilation windows in the upper part and near the floor, is able to provide natural ventilation of the house throughout the summer. Through the upper ventilation windows open on a sunny day, the rising mass of heated air goes outside and, due to a decrease in atmospheric pressure, cool air is sucked into the greenhouse through the lower ventilation windows or through the windows of the house adjacent to the greenhouse.

Shading devices mounted on the south facade of the house can also protect against overheating in the summer. Retractable shading or canvas canopies on the outside of south-facing windows, solarium, Trombe walls can significantly reduce heat gain. Deciduous trees and shrubs planted to shade south-facing glazing can also create a microclimate that can lower temperatures by a few degrees. After the leaves fall in autumn, the radiation of the winter sun will freely penetrate into the house.

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