Ethnic Loading of Food as a Sustainable Culture Component in the Form of Physical-Geographical, Soil and Ethnographic Zoning of the Right-Bank Polissia

Study of food as a sustainable component of culture and the manifestation of physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic conditions of the Right-Bank Polesie. The dependence of food on ethnic traditions, economic activities of people was revealed.

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Язык английский
Дата добавления 16.11.2020
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Ethnic Loading of Food as a Sustainable Culture Component in the Form of Physical-Geographical, Soil and Ethnographic Zoning of the Right-Bank Polissia

Inna Nesterchuk

Annotation

In the article, through the prism of gastronomic tourism, the research of food as a sustainable component of culture and the manifestation of certain physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic conditions of the Right-bank Polissia region was conducted. The dependence of food on ethnic traditions, economic activities of people and the natural environment of their residency is revealed. The results of field physical-geographical, soil-agronomic, ethnographic researches and analysis of the works of representatives of related disciplines made it possible to substantiate the place of the Right-bank Polissia region in the system of physical-geographical, soil and ethnographic zoning of Ukraine. Based on the analysis of analytical works of topographic and statistical content, as well as works of art that are accumulative in nature and based on factual material needed for its generalization about the gastronomy of the region, an information base was created for further mapping by units of physical and geographical zoning. By applying the methods of geoinformation analysis implemented in the environment of geoinformation systems, the author developed a map of gastronomic tourism of the Right-bank Polissya. Using the methods of geoinformation analysis implemented in the environment of geoinformation systems, the author developed a map of gastronomic tourism of the Right-bank Polissia.

Key words: Right-bank Polissia, food, sustainable component of culture, gastronomic tourism, physical- geographical zoning, soil zoning, ethnographic zoning, gastronomic map.

Нестерчук Инна. Этническая нагрузка еды как устойчивой компоненты культуры и каркаса в сфере гастрономического туризма в формате физико-географического, почвенного и этнографического районирования Правобережного Полесья.

В статье сквозь призму гастрономического туризма было проведено исследование продовольствия как устойчивой составляющей культуры и проявления определенных физических, географических, почвенных и этнографических условий Правобережного Полесья. Выявлена зависимость пищи от этнических традиций, хозяйственной деятельности людей и природной среды их обитания. Результаты полевых физико-географических, почвенно-агрономических, этнографических исследований и анализа работ представителей смежных дисциплин позволили обосновать место Правобережного Полесья в системе физико-географического, почвенного и этнографического районирования Украины. На основе анализа аналитических произведений топографического и статистического содержания, а также произведений искусства, имеющих накопительный характер, и на основе фактического материала, необходимого для его обобщения о гастрономии региона, была создана информационная база для дальнейшего картографирования по единицам физического и географического районирования. Применяя методы геоинформационного анализа, реализованные в среде геоинформационных систем, автор разработал карту гастрономического туризма Правобережного Полесья.

Ключевые слова: Правобережное Полесья, продовольствие, устойчивое компонент культуры, гастрономический туризм, физико-географическое районирование, районирование почв, этнографическое районирование, гастрономическая карта. ethnic traditions culture

Нестерчук Інна.

Етнічне навантаження їжі як стійкої компоненти культури та каркасу у сфері гастрономічного туризму у форматі фізико-географічного, ґрунтового та етнографічного районування Правобережного Полісся.

У статті крізь призму гастрономічного туризму було проведено дослідження продовольства як стійкої складової культури та прояву певних фізичних, географічних, ґрунтових та етнографічних умов Правобережного Полісся. Виявлено залежність їжі від етнічних традицій, господарської діяльності людей та природного середовища їх проживання. Результати польових фізико-географічних, ґрунтово-агрономічних, етнографічних досліджень та аналізу праць представників суміжних дисциплін дали змогу обґрунтувати місце Правобережного Полісся у системі фізико-географічного, ґрунтового та етнографічного районування України. На основі аналізу аналітичних творів топографічного та статистичного змісту, а також творів мистецтва, що мають накопичувальний характер, та на основі фактичного матеріалу, необхідного для його узагальнення про гастрономію регіону, була створена інформаційна база для подальшого картографування за одиницями фізичного та географічного районування. Застосовуючи методи геоінформаційного аналізу, реалізовані в середовищі геоінформаційних систем, автор розробив карту гастрономічного туризму Правобережного Полісся.

Ключові слова: Правобережне Полісся, продовольство, сталий компонент культури, гастрономічний туризм, фізико-географічне районування, районування ґрунтів, етнографічне районування, гастрономічна карта.

Introduction

The nation standard of living always depends on the development of gastronomic preferences, which are not a means of satisfying biological needs, but a manifestation of social relations inherent in sustainable food traditions, which are based on the peculiarities of economic life, and also depend on the physical and geographical conditions of the territory. The Ukrainian ethnic group has always had strong cultural contacts, which are the demonstration of hospitality and tolerance in dealing with different peoples.

Formulation of a scientific problem. Despite the considerable study of the Right-Bank Polissia territory, it has not been considered in the symbiosis of physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic studies to determine the level of development of gastronomic tourism and to further development of the gastronomic map of the region.

Analysis of recent research and publications. Traditional and everyday culture of Polissia is widely covered in the joint work of Belarusian and Ukrainian national scientists namely M. Moroz, I. Chakvin (Moroz M. A., 1988), but there is no detailed mapping of traditional forms of food and nutrition, there are also insignificant works specifically dedicated to food (Artiukh L. F., 1985, Bondarchik V.K., 1987). Issues of physical and geographical zoning are described in the works by K. Gerenchuk (Gerenchuk K. I., 1977), Marynych (Marynych O. M., 2005), N. Syrota, A. Lanko, P. Shyshchenko. Genetic and morphological characteristics of soils of Ukrainian Polissia, and subsequent soil maps formation are studied by such scientists as: N. Vernander (Vernander N. B., 1951), M. Polupan (Polupan M. I., 2005). Many scientists such as H. Stelmakh (Stelmakh H. Yu., 1958), V. Naulko (Naulko V. I., 1991), S. Makarchuk (Makarchuk S. A., 2012), are interested in the ethnographic zoning of Ukraine. Ethnicity theory is studied by Yu. Bromlei (Bromlei Yu. V., 1983). Controversial and debatable issues of the ethnographic zoning of Ukraine are covered in the works by G. Stelmakh (Stelmakh H. Yu., 1958), D. Kosaryk, K. Huslystyi, V. Horlenko, R. Radovych, Yu. Bromlei (Bromlei Yu. V., 1983), Yu. Hoshko, R. Kyrchiv, M. Moroz, Chakvin (Moroz M. A., 1988), M. Pankiv, D. Buchko, V. Naulko (Naulko V. I., 1991), A. Ponomarov, M. Tyvodar, B. Savchuk, I. Veremiichyk, V. Davydiuk, V. Kushnir, G. Kozholianko.

The schemes of historical and ethnographic zoning of Ukraine have not yet acquired a complete form and common boundaries and need further elaboration. The conceptual apparatus needs coordination. In spite of all this, progressive steps have been taken and they require thorough generalizations of scientific values: historical and ethnographic area, historical and ethnographic region, historical and ethnographic district, ethnographic subarea. In addition, the scheme of ethnographic zoning of Ukraine by S. Makarchuk is used in our scientific research (Makarchuk S. A., 2012). This scientific work is an attempt to characterize the origin of gastronomic tourism of the Right-Bank Polissia, based on the foundations of physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic zoning.

The aim of the article is to analyze the food culture of residents of Polissia in terms of physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic scientific research. The realization of this aim requires a number of specific tasks, in particular: to analyze the available historiography on physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic studies and their source base; to collect and systematize new bibliographic material and to introduce into scientific circulation the definitions of "gastronomic tourism", "gastronomic potential", "gastronomic destination", "gastronomic tourist", "gastronomic tourist product", to find out the peculiarities of traditional food of Polissia residents with the subsequent creating map of Right-Bank Polissia gastronomic tourism.

Research methodology and methods. The methodological basis of this study is the basic provisions of geographical science on the interaction of society and nature, as well as geographical cartography namely the possibility of mapping complex social and natural formations with the help of cartographic models.

In the course of the research, general scientific and separate scientific methods and approaches are applied, in particular: the systematic approach, the system-structural analysis and synthesis - to define the main features, concepts and principles of ethnic loading of food as a stable component of culture in the form of physical-geographical, soil and ethnographic zoning Right-Bank Polissia; the descriptive and historical comparisons - in the analysis of the main refinement of research issues; field surveys of physico- geographical, agronomic, ethnographic, the local lore - for the collection and primary systematization of factual material; informational - for comprehensive study of objects that make up the research through analysis, further systematization, reclassification of the obtained source base and for the purpose of mapping; the modeling (structural-graphic, mathematical-cartographic, cartographic) - while determining the possibilities of developing appropriate models, topics and content of maps; the generalization - for scientific substantiation and creation of derivative cartographic models on the basis of existing ones; mathematical methods - for mathematical processing of different types of information (full-scale observations, statistical, textual, etc.); cybernetic methods - for the elaboration of methods of computer processing of information, for the creation of mapping models and use of modern software products. MS Excel is used in computer systematization of material in spreadsheets; ArcGIS 10.2 geoinformation system, Adobe Photoshop raster graphics editor, Adobe Illustrator vector graphics editor are used when creating experimental map samples and developing mapping techniques.

Presentation of the basic material of the research. The landscape-typological structure of the territory should be understood as the laws of the territorial structure; interconnections and relative positioning of parts of the landscape, which are relatively small natural complexes, the formation and development of which depend on the local features of each specific area (Lyubitseva O. O., 2002). Right- Bank Polissia includes Volyn Polissia region, Zhytomyr Polissia region, Kyiv Polissia region (Nesterchuk I. K., 2018, 2011). The designated area belongs to the Eastern European flat of the zone of mixed coniferous- deciduous forests of the Polissia region (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1. Physical-geographical zoning of Right-Bank Polissia (Source: Nesterchuk I. K., 2011)

The soil cover of the Right-Bank Polissia is quite colorful (Fig. 2). This is due to humid and mild climate, a large variety of chemical and granulometric composition of soil-forming rocks, well-developed meso- and microrelief with general flatness of the territory, close and very uneven occurrence of groundwater, diversity of flora and different in influence intensity of the human economic activity. The soilforming rocks have a predominantly light granulometric composition and are represented by sandy, clayey- sandy, sandy and loamy water-glacial, glacial and alluvial deposits. Occasionally, chalky-marl spots occur at the outcrops of massive crystalline rocks. In some places of the Right-Bank Polissia, small islets are covered with loessial deposits. One of the largest is the Solvechansk-Ovruch Ridge.

A large variety of soil-forming rocks, their granulometric and mineralogical composition, complex meso- and microrelief, are the cause of different conditions of moistening. Significant waterlogging, rich and varied vegetation cover have caused the formation of a very complicated soil cover in Polissia. The latter in most areas forms complexes and mosaics, characterized by small contours (average size of soil contours ranges from 20 to 50 ha).

Sod-slightly podzolic and sod-medium podzolic soils predominate in Polissia. They occupy about 60% of the area of the zone. Due to the poor drainage of the area and the close groundwater, about 60% of the podzolic soils are silt and glue. The second largest area (about 20%) is occupied by meadow and turf soils, which are distributed on the floodplain terraces of the rivers, in separate low-density declines on the overlying terraces and watersheds. Peatlands and peat-silt soils occupy the third place (10%). They lie on the floodplain terraces of rivers and the bottoms of passage valleys, mostly lowland, rarely transitional types. A small area (1-1.5%) is of sod-carbonate soils developed on Cretaceous rocks and nearly as much is occupied by gray and light gray podzolized soils, which are common in loessial islands. These are some of the best soils of the Polissia. In general, in the structure of the soil cover, 48.0% of the agricultural land of the zone is represented by sod-podzolic soils, 13.9% - light gray, gray forest, dark gray and partly black-soil podzolized, 14.6% - sod and silty soils, 6.0% peat bogs and peatlands. The composition of land is characterized by a significant proportion of arable land, which is 49.6%. Turf carbonate soils are distributed in the south and southwestern part of Volyn Polissia based on products of weathered chalk marls and chalk.

These soils have 3-6 to 8-12% humus. Gray forest soils occupy the largest areas on the Solvechansk- Ovruch Ridge, in the south of Zhytomyr Polissia (Polupan M. I., 2005).

Fig. 2. Soils of Right-Bank Polissia (Source: Polupan M. I., 2005)

It is obvious that the natural conditions have also impact on traditional culture, food, architecture, clothing of Polissia residents, acting as an ethno -differentiating feature. Therefore, the ethnographic zoning of Ukraine, and in particular the Right-Bank Polissia, is based on local differences of traditional culture namely gastronomic. The ethnographic zoning of Ukraine is carried out comprehensively in terms of both material and spiritual, taking into account the following components (Makarchuk S. A., 2012) (Fig. 3).

The ethnographic zoning of Ukraine is based on the features of traditional dwellings, clothing, artistic crafts, food, occupations and tools, taking into account local peculiarities [4] (Fig. 4). Three regions Central- South-Eastern, Northern or Polissia, South-Western are studied as the empirical units.

Our scientific research deals mainly with the Northern or Polissia region, namely its right-bank part (Right-Bank Polissia) which coincides with the natural strip of the Ukrainian Polissia and administratively covers the northern parts of Volyn, Rivne, Zhytomyr, Kyiv, Chernihiv and Sumy regions. The northern border of the region is the state border with Belarus and Russia, the southern boundary runs approximatel y through the cities of Volodymyr - Lutsk - Rivne - Korets - Novograd-Volyn - Zhytomyr - Kyiv - Nizhyn - Borzna, further along the river Seim to the border with Russia. The Polissia region is divided into three sub-districts, due to socio-political conditions. Which have also imprinted on culture and life - Eastern Polissia, Middle Polissia, Western Polissia. We have studied Western Polissia and Middle Polissia subregions (Makarchuk S. A., 2012). The heterogeneity of the Right-Bank Polissia in ethnographic terms is obvious, since the northern lands of the Volyn region do not constitute the entire Western Polissia, but are only part of it. Ethnographic zoning is based on the genetically related features of sub-ethnicities and ethnographic groups, in particular residents of Polissia, whose formation is influenced by geographical, historical, political, socio-economic, cultural factors. The endogenous and exogenous influence of these factors on the food traditions of the studied region is indisputable.

Fig. 3. The components of culture used in the ethnographic zoning of Ukraine (Source: Makarchuk S. A., 2012, improved by the authors)

Considering that the population of Right-Bank Polissia lived in the area of mixed forests, hunting, fishing and harvesting of wild plants such as viburnum, raspberries, blackberries, as well as mushrooms and honey of wild bees (beekeeping) prevailed in the economic activity of local residents. These products were the main diet of the local population in ancient times. Agriculture takes a secondary place because of the lack of forest-free land for horticulture and crop production, and secondly, common then millet or garden supplies (turnips, onions, peas, poppies) are easier to obtain as a result of product exchange. The Right-Bank Polissia has considerable opportunities for development of agriculture and stockbreeding. The soil and climatic conditions of the zone are favorable for the cultivation of cereals, legumes, spinning, root crops, potatoes, vegetables, perennials and annuals, as well as various berries and fruit crops.

Rye was and still is the traditionally popular crop of the region. On the Ukrainian lands crop rye has been recorded since the 6th century B. C. During the late 19th - early 20th century it occupied 50-60% of the sown area of Polissia. There were also buckwheat and millet, barley and oats. Wheat was poorly distributed because of unstable fertility on sandy or marshy soils. This ratio of grain crops remains virtually unchanged to this day.

Fig. 4. Ethnographic zoning of Right-Bank Polissia (Source: developed on the basis of Makarchuk S. A., 2012)

Peas and beans have also been grown since ancient times. Subsequently (in the 17th century) beans appeared and spread rapidly. Potato, which gradually conquered Europe after the discovery of America, was especially widespread on the territory of Polissia and Ukraine in 18th century. Vegetable crops in the region were widely represented by cabbage, cucumbers, beets, carrots, parsnips, celery, pumpkin, onions and garlic. Many people consumed horseradish and wild horseradish and sorrel. Flax traditionally dominated among oilseeds, while hemp was sown in the rest of the territory. Moreover, redhead, rapeseed, mustard were grown. During the late 19th century sunflower was gaining popularity.

Gardening was less developed in the region than in the south of Ukraine. However, near apple, pear, plum, cherry, and berry bushes such as currant, raspberry, and viburnum grew the houses. Wild bushes of viburnum, blackberries, elderberries were also widespread. Nowadays gardens are everywhere in Polissia. Berries and fruits are consumed fresh and dried.

Most of the Ukrainian population was engaged in farming in the period of the second half of 13th - early 17th centuries. Part of the arable land was sown with rye and wheat, with much less acreage. Other cereals were barley, oats, peas, buckwheat, millet; among industrial crops - hemp, flax; garden-melons - turnips, onions, garlic, cabbage, pumpkins, beets, watermelons, melons, carrots, cucumbers, radish, beans, poppy seeds, lentils; garden - apples, pears, cherries, plums and bird-cherries.

Among vegetable crops the following vegetables were used: cabbage (fresh and pickled), beets, radish, carrots, cucumbers, pumpkins. Local spicy-flavoring plants such as horseradish, onion, garlic, dill, crushed stone, cumin, anise, mint, tormentil, and also imported from other countries - pepper and cinnamon (cinnamon) were used as seasoning and flavoring.

The formation of gastronomic culture took place within the small population during the period of the establishment of Kyiv state, when the tribes called Drevliany, Duliby, at the same time have gained the experience of the treatment and cooking the products of hunting and fishing or gathered wild plants fruit. The competitive nature of the flora and fauna of the physical-geographical regions of the Right-Bank Polissia, as well as the way of life-style of the local population, caused the similarity of gastronomic preferences, which found their expression in their most common dishes (fig. 5).

The cartographic mdel is created on the basis of elaboration of analytical works of topographic and statistical content, as well as fiction that are accumulative and based on factual material necessary for its generalization about gastronomy of the region. The information base for mapping has been developed by units of physical and geographical zoning.

Fig. 5. Gastronomic map of the Right-Bank Polissia (Source: authors' own research)

The whole gastronomy of the Right-Bank Polissia forms in stages and, despite the typical social obstacles in the processes of its own institutionalization, has retained its uniqueness to this day. Certainly, cooking cannot exist separately from the original identity of a national chef who has his or her own outlook, lifestyle, and characteristic details of everyday life that influence the cooking process (at the conscious and subconscious level). Therefore, "gastronomic tourism" is a sublimation of social values, in particular gastronomy, tourism, which form images of public memory for posterity and express not only verbal information about human activity, lifestyle, culture of food and recreation, but also capable of generating meaning, symbols and tastes. The further research is rather significant, as studies of the gastronomic potential of individual regions of Ukraine are unfortunately not fully studied in scientific publications. "Gastronomic potential" is a symbiosis of the resource (tourist and recreational), reserve (use and practical embodiment of inherent abilities: culinary, hotel-restaurant, institutional), opportunities (formation of new skills: culinary schools, master classes, blogs, tours, educational new model of leisure mass media), tourist infrastructure, manufacturer of gastronomic tourism product, institutions, attractions for the organization and implementation of tourist, recreational, gastronomic, hotel and restaurant, logistic, promotion activities in the region to meet human needs (Author N. I.). At present, gastronomic destination is considered as a strategic object of entrepreneurship by individual investors at the regional level, although it is desirable to develop a strategy based on international investments.

"Gastronomic destination" is a matrix that is based on the criteria of motivated subjects' involvement (based on "bottom-up initiatives"), clustering potential (public-private partnerships, cooperatives), competency-building and sustainable tourism development potential.

The guaranty to the sustainable functioning of individual tourism businesses in the united territorial communities in the future is to participate in the formation of a gastronomic tourist product of the gastronomic destination. "Gastronomic tourist product" is a package of tangible and intangible elements (impressions, services, attractions, tourist resources,) that can be purchased within the same travel destination.

Mass media, the instagram destination that provides information on its cultural features, attractions and gastronomic events, and in general about all tourist activities, including restaurants, hotels, culinary master classes, gastronomic festivals, chef gala- dinners, always attracts more tourists.

Our authorial vision - "gastronomic tourist" to be a tourist who travels for a well-defined gastronomic purpose, regardless of financial status, visiting both high-end establishments and catering establishments, or street food or autochthonous, traditional cuisine.

Conclusions and prospects of the study

The gastronomic space is typologized in view to the dominant food culture of the individual region and historical period. This makes it possible to determine the characteristic conditions for the distribution and consumption of authentic dishes of the Right-Bank Polissia. As a result, in accordance with the purpose of our work, the characteristic features of the physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic zoning of Ukraine in the context of gastronomic culture are identified, which are to specify its definition, symptomatic circumstances of the origin of autochthonous dishes, the most important stages of its historical development and mutual interaction and the processes of organizing social life. Analysis of such features is made through the isolation in the field studies of the physical, geographical, soil and ethnographic epistemological properties of gastronomic culture, which became the prerequisites for the formation of a surprisingly heuristic concept for the diagnosis of gastronomic tourism in society and its further study. The gastronomic map of the Right-Bank Polissia is presented as an authentic food region that represents delicious, high-quality local cuisine whose dishes meet strict environmental standards. Since there is almost no professional literature and scientific articles on this subject, we have tried to introduce into the scientific terminology a number of definitions: "gastronomic tourism", "gastronomic potential", "gastronomic destination", "gastronomic tourist", "gastronomic tourist product".

Thus, the search of new ways of nutrition organizing is based on the study of gastronomic tourism, gastronomic tourism product, on the basic principles of branding of the territory, in particular the Right- Bank Polissia, which shapes the tourist image of the area, in the process of creating a gastronomic impression in the tourists' minds. Local cuisine can be considered as a gastronomic tourist resource of the territory, which allows to produce new gastronomic tourist products, to open new facets of gastronomic tourist direction.

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