Varieties of sewn and printed jewelery in the decor of the traditional dress of Ukrainians of Podillia in the second half of the XIX - early XX century

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Varieties of sewn and printed jewelery in the decor of the traditional dress of Ukrainians of Podillia in the second half of the XIX - early XX century

Ivanevych Lilia - Doctor of Historical Sciences

Abstract

The purpose of the study: to analyze well-known and little-known works and museum collections and explore the types of embroidered and printed jewellery as a common way of decorating Podolsk traditional clothing of the second half of the nineteenth - early twentieth century. The research methodology is based on the principles of historicism, comprehensiveness, systematicity and objectivity. The latter, in turn, are implemented through a combination of general scientific, historical and ethnological methods with other interdisciplinary methods, including statistical, descriptive, system-structural, as well as methods of museum source studies, visual anthropology and technical research. The scientific novelty is that for the first time an attempt is made to determine the regional and local features of sewn and printed ornaments in the form of applications or individual details for the decoration of folk clothing of Ukrainians in all subregions of Podillia. Conclusions. Thus, in order to decorate the components of the folk costume of Podolsk Ukrainians of the second half of the XIX - early XX centuries used such techniques and techniques of application and placement of decor as weaving, beating, embroidery, stripes and stuffing in the form of applications or individual parts. Stitched and printed ornaments as a way of decoration were widespread among underwear, waist, chest and outerwear, headdresses, belts, jewellery, shoes and clothing accessories. Often sewn and printed ornaments played a central role in the overall composition, contributing to the balance and unification clothing elements of the traditional complex of Podolian clothing. Moreover, the influences of neighbouring historical and ethnographic regions and districts, in particular, Bukovyna, Volyn, Opillia, Pokuttia, Naddniprianska and SouthSteppe Ukraine, were seen in these types of methods of decorating the folk clothing of Ukrainians of Podillia. Th us, the varieties of Podolsk embroidered and printed ornaments can be considered as a valuable source of comparative information on the material and spiritual cultural heritage of Podillia in particular and Ukraine in general.

Key words: traditional costume, folk clothing, Ukrainians of Podillia, subregions, regional and local features, ways of decoration, stripes (sewn ornaments), printed ornaments, applications, details for decoration.

Анотація

РІЗНОВИДИ НАШИВНИХ І НАБИВНИХ ПРИКРАС У ДЕКОРІ ТРАДИЦІЙНОГО ВБРАННЯ УКРАЇНЦІВ ПОДІЛЛЯ ДРУГОЇ ПОЛОВИНИ ХІХ - ПОЧАТКУ ХХ ст.

ІВАНЕВИЧ Лілія - доктор історичних наук

Мета дослідження - проаналізувати відомі та маловідомі праці й музейні фондові колекції і дослідити питання різновидів нашивних і набивних прикрас як поширеного способу декорування подільського традиційного вбрання другої половини ХІХ - початку ХХ ст. Методологія дослідження базується на принципах історизму, всебічності, системності та об'єктивності. Останні в свою чергу реалізуються за допомогою поєднання загальнонаукових, історичних та етнологічних методів з іншими міждисциплінарними методами, зокрема, статистичним, описовим, системно- структурним, а також методами музейного джерелознавства, візуальної антропології й техніко-технологічного дослідження. Наукова новизна полягає у тому, що вперше подається спроба визначення регіонально-локальних особливостей нашивних і набивних прикрас у вигляді аплікацій чи окремих деталей для оздоблення народного одягу українців усіх субрегіонів Поділля. Висновки. Отже, з метою прикрашання складових компонентів народного костюма подільських українців другої половини ХІХ - початку ХХ ст. застосовували такі прийоми й техніки нанесення та розміщення декору, як ткання, вибійка, вишивка, нашивки й набивки у вигляді аплікацій чи окремих деталей. Нашивні й набивні оздоби як спосіб декорування мали поширення серед натільного, поясного, нагрудного й верхнього одягу, уборів голови, поясів, прикрас, взуття та доповнень до одягу. Нерідко нашивні й набивні прикраси виконували центральну роль у цілісній композиції, сприяючи врівноваженню й об'єднанню одягових елементів традиційного комплексу вбрання подолян. Причому в зазначених типах прийомів оздоблення народного одягу українців Поділля проглядалися впливи сусідніх історико-етнографічних регіонів та районів, зокрема, Буковини, Волині, Опілля, Покуття, Наддніпрянської та Південно-Степової України. Таким чином, різновиди подільських нашивних і набивних оздоб можна розглядати як цінне джерело порівняльної інформації стосовно матеріальної й духовної культурної спадщини Поділля зокрема, та України загалом.

Ключові слова: традиційне вбрання, народний одяг, українці Поділля, субрегіони, регіонально-локальні особливості, способи декорування, нашивки (нашивні прикраси), набивні прикраси, аплікації, деталі для оздоблення.

Formulation of the problem. Varieties of materials, existing in the historical and ethnographic region of Podillia, for making clothes, techniques of their decoration, ornamental motifs, colors and placement of patterns on products are directly related to the components of decorated folk costumes, their functional use, method of wearing, harmonious combination into integral complexes, etc. In the second half of the XIX - early XX century. The color and texture of home-made materials of Ukrainians of Podillia were completely acceptable for various ways and techniques of drawing and an arrangement of a decor. Therefore, to decorate the traditional clothing components of the Podolsk costume, such techniques as weaving, beating, embroidery, sewn (stripes) and printed ornaments were used. In this article, we will focus on sewn and printed ornaments, which were placed directly on the finished clothes of Podolia is in the form of applications or individual details with strips of fabric, ribbons, ribbons, cords, leather, metal and wooden elements and more.

Analysis of research and recent publications

Information about national and some regional features of various types of embroidered and printed ornaments as a common way of decorating traditional Ukrainian clothing is partly given in the works and articles of such scientists, ethnographers, historians, art critics and local historians of the second half of the XIX century - the beginning of the XXI century, as: P. Chubynski, V. Shavrin, P. Shtelmakh, H. Vovk, K. Mateiko, G. Horyn, J. Kozholianko, M. Kostyshyna, T. Nikolaieva, G. Kozholianka, M. Bilan and G. Stelmashchuk, L. Bulgakova-Sytnyk, Z. Vasina, O. Kosmina, G.°Stelmashchuk, V.°Kosakovski, L. Ponomar, L. Galchevska, G. Savka, O. Vorobiey, L.°Ivanevych and others. However, the issue of local (subregional) and local-zonal (narrow-local) features of the decoration of folk clothing of Ukrainian peasants of all subregions of Podillia in the second half of the XIX - early XX centuries remains not entirely studied. Our article is devoted to the problems mentioned above. museum sewn ornament clothing

The study is based on a detailed analysis of both existing historiography and a broad source base. The latter covers self-processed materials of the stock collections of the Podolsk traditional system of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, the National Museum of Ukrainian Folk Decorative Art of Ukraine, the Ukrainian Center of Folk Culture «Ivan Honchar Museum» (Kyiv), Museum of Ethnography and Crafts of the Institute of Ethnology of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine, National Museum dedicated to A.°Sheptytskyi (Lviv), Vinnytsia, Zhytomyr, Ternopil, Khmelnytskyi and Chernivtsi regional museums of local lore, Vinnytsia and Chernivtsi regional art museums, Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, Odessa State Museum of History and Local Lore, Borshchiv Regional Museum of Local Lore (Ternopil region), State Historical and Cultural Reserve «Mezhybizh», Kamianets-Podilskyi State Historical Museum-Reserve and educational and scientific laboratory of ethnology of Kamianets-Podilskyi National University Ivan Ohiienko (Khmelnytskyi region), Orativskyi, Tyvrivskyi and Tulchynskyi district museums of local lore (Vinnytsia region) and the educational and scientific laboratory on ethnology of Podillia of Vinnytsia State Pedagogical University named after Mykhailo Kotsiubynskyi.

The purpose of the article

Based on the assessment of historiography and the source base of the work, we will reveal regional, local and local-zonal features of embroidered and printed ornaments as a way of decorating traditional Ukrainian costumes of Bukovynian, Western, Eastern and Central Podillia of the second half of the XIX - early XX centuries.

Presenting main material

Stitched ornaments as a way of applying decor directly on the finished products were widely used by Podolians of all local areas of the studied historical and ethnographic region in the form of applications (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1693) or individual details (Funds of Kamianets-Podilskyi State Historical Museum-Reserve, CPC - 1437) with brushes (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2240; Funds of the Chernivtsi Regional Museum, ChKM - III - 16822) (fringes (Mateiko, 1977. Ukrainian folk clothing, pp. 69-70), woolen balls, corners (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 1774), toroks (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1171), frenzels (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2411)), hand-woven lace (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 336, 957) or factory (Funds of the state historical and cultural reserve «Mezhybizh», KN - 137, 143), strips of fabric (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 3437; Funds of the Zhytomyr Regional Museum, T - 1546), strips of fur (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2240), ribbons (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 3682; Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 1749), braids (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 896), leather (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 1072), cords braided from threads (Funds of Kamianets-Podilskyi State Historical Museum-Reserve, CPC - 524), cords braided from leather (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 362), mirror (Kozholianko, 1999, p. 257, 295), cloves of garlic (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 357), feathers (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 938), metal coins (medallions) (Funds of the Chernivtsi Regional Museum, ChKM - III - 12745), metal strips (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 1736), copper plaques (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 358), beads (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 363), feathers (ducks, roosters, peacocks) (Funds of the Museum of Ethnography and Arts and Crafts, GU - 320), etc. The type of decoration depended on the type of clothing (body (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 336, 957), waist (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 575), chest (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2834), upper (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, Sun - 11/109), hats (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 363), belts (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 2920), shoes (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, O - 3634), jewelry (Funds of the Museum of Ethnography and Arts and Crafts, EP - 63)) its purpose (everyday, festive, ceremonial) and, of course, the age of the bearer, family, property and social status of the person. In addition to sewn ornaments, Podolsk peasants used printed ornaments for such types of clothing as shoes, leather belts and leather accessories, namely: wooden pegs (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, О - 4090), wooden nails (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, О - 3634; 22, W - 48/1-2), metal horseshoes (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, О - 3183; 22, W - 48/1-2), metal nails, (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, О - 362) and copper plaques (capsules) (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, О - 3204). It is worth emphasizing that local masters have always selected embroidered and printed ornaments in harmony according to the texture, color scheme and ornamentation of the fabric or leather as the main background of the product. With the help of centuries of experience, artistic taste and their own aesthetic preferences, Podolians tried to choose the material, technique, placement, composition and color scheme of stripes and padding successfully in order to emphasize the shape and proportions of clothing, as well as highlight certain details or components of traditional costumes.

As a material for decoration, the Ukrainians of Podillia used threads, lace, ribbon, ribbons, fabric, leather, fur and cords (laces). They embroidered with woolen, hemp, linen and silk threads, and later sewed various components of the suit. Woolen or silk (later cotton) threads were used to make ties and tassels for shirts, and woolen threads were also used to make tassels (balls or corners) for finishing shoulder and outerwear. At the same time, women's headdresses and belts were supplemented with tassels (fringe, woolen balls, corners, thoraxes, fringels), and women's waistwork were supplemented with fringe (thorks, fringes). An auxiliary way of decorating cloth and fur breast and estate clothes was the arrangement of tassels made of multicolored wool on the waist (in detachable mantles) (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 1693), on insert wedges, pockets, etc.

Podolians decorated the hem of women's shirts and aprons with shop lace, mostly white (sometimes milky) (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 3384, 3389; Funds of the state historical and cultural reserve «Mezhybizh», KN - 137, 143).

The ribbon (covering), of various types in width, shape, pattern and color, was used by women to complete the edges of sewn waist, chest and outerwear. Thus, with the help of bright colors of narrow ribbons, and eventually factory bindweed (pigtails, braids), folk masters and craftswomen of Eastern and sometimes Central Podillia decorated corsets, vests, armor (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 2806), chugai (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 758), mantles and other components not only linear, but also more complex ornamental compositions. The bottom of the skirts collected in assemblies or folds (Pidvolochysk district (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2409), Western Podillia; Kryzhopil township, Vinnytsia region, Eastern Podillia; Volochysk district) was covered with a hairy «brush» ribbon, mostly dark green, Central Podillia).

Multicolored satin and silk ribbons supplemented in the form of horizontal stripes sewn thigh clothing (skirts and aprons) or sometimes diversified women's chest clothing. For example, a black skirt made of cotton fabric in six big pieces of clothing, gathered, except for the front, in small folds, is decorated at the bottom with two blue satin ribbons (Birkiv village (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 3682), Lityn district, Vinnytsia region, Eastern Podillia), or a black satin skirt in assemblies with satin ribbons of yellow, green, crimson and blue colors at the bottom (Slobidka village, Novoushitsky district, Central Podillia), or a brown woolen skirt in folds with silk ribbons at the bottom (Pesets village (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 1658), Novoushitsky district, Central Podillia), etc.

Among the factory fabrics, satin, corduroy, velvet (pleated), cotton, plush, satin, woolen cloth, later chintz, and others served as materials for the design of waistwear, as well as shoulder and estate. One or more horizontal stripes velvet was decorated with striped skirts (Gorbivtsi village, Lityn district, Vinnytsia region and Blagoveshchensk district, Kirovohrad region, Eastern Podillia; Adamivka village (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 575), Vinkovetskyi district, Central Podillia). In addition, Podolsk peasants often hemmed («lined») skirts from the bottom with a wide platband of patterned calico (Lityn, Vinnytsia, Eastern Podillia) or other colored fabrics (platbands of red material - the village of Uyarintsi, Tyvriv district, Vinnytsia, Eastern Podillia, platbands made of ornamented satin - the village of Katsmaziv, Zhmerynskyi district, Vinnytsia region, Eastern Podillia; platbands made of gray material - the village of Slobidka, Novoushytskyi district, Central Podillia). And in the villages of Kodymsky district of Odessa region (Eastern Podillia) platbands of colored fabric hemmed the so-called sharafans. Stripes made of these fabrics had an original look on the corsets of Vinnytsia and Cherkasy regions (Eastern Podillia) and Khmelnytskyi region (Central Podillia).

'I lie leather, in particular, most often with a soft multi-colored sap, was decorated with a fur breast (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1145, 2949; Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 40, 1004) and upper winter (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 128, 129, 984, 995, 1025, 1072, 1627, 1775), less often - autumn-spring (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 3849) clothes. So, bright stripes in the form of applications from skin or from both skin and cloth of the master had in corners or along pieces of closing of keptars (fur coats, leibiks, muntians), in the upper part of the wedges, along the line of the cut waist, at the corners of the brims, at the bottom of the sleeves, sometimes along the neckline and along the brims in suits, mantles and other goods.

Podolians liked to decorate fur shoulder and estate clothes. With sheep fur (astrakhan, smushka) for the purpose of artistic completion and warming of clothes. For example, collars and cuffs were made of fur, and strips of brown, gray and black colors were used to cover the brims and the division of the abovementioned components of the traditional peasant costume (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 2621; 4, KN - 146, 147, 148, 151, 438; Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 437, 894, 1145, 2942, 2949, 3388; Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 40, 128, 129, 984, 995, 1004, 1025, 1072, 1627, 1775).

Cord decoration (lacing) also occupied an important place in the aesthetic solution of breast and outerwear of Ukrainians of all local zones of Podillia. The color of the cords was selected by local craftsmen in accordance with the harmonious combination with the color of the cloth (in cloth products) or leather (in fur products). In particular, they combined white, green, orange and red cords with material of white, brown or gray colors, black cords complemented white and gray materials, green and red cords accentuated clothes made of white material, and white and I or blue cords - made of brown material. Cords were sewn mainly along the seam and neckline, along the brims, on the collar and at the bottom of the sleeves. For example, there were variants of women's hoods made of brown home-woven cloth, lined with velvet and woolen cords of white, red and green color (Pashkivtsi village, Khmelnytskyi district, Central Podillia) (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 731) or only green cord (Kadyivtsi village, Kamianets-Podilskyi district, Central Podillia). There was also a men's armor made of brown cloth, decorated with a twisted blue cord (the village of Malyntsi, Khotyn district, Bukovynske Podillia) (Funds of Kamianets-Podilskyi State Historical Museum-Reserve, CPC - 92). There were also decorations of brown cloth products with a brown cord and buttons or corners made of multicolored wool (Borshchiv and Buchach districts, Western Podillia, etc.).

In general, Podolsk peasants used sewn ornaments to highlight certain elements of the cut or constructive lines of clothing. Thus, in bodysuits, the role of jewelry was performed by ribbons (including garus), tassels and braided strings of threads, which tied the neck or sewn factory or braided lace (Funds of the Chernivtsi Regional Museum, T - 138). Instead, the emphasis on decor in shoulder and waist products, as mentioned above, was made at the waist along the cut barrels and the upper hem, at the bottom of the sleeves, on the pockets, collar or along the neckline, armholes, saws, etc. Regional, local and local-zonal features were determined in the placement of sewn ornaments, their technique and compositional construction.

The application of colored leather, cloth, pleats and other materials, the appropriate shape of which pieces or strips were sewn on clothes, forming a specific pattern, was widespread in the villages of Podillia, Bukovyna, Middle Dnieper and the Carpathians. In Podillia, the application, especially on fur products, was most loved by craftsmen in the Bukovyna and Western local zones and in the Transnistrian regions of the Eastern and Central Podillia (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 2806). In the right-bank Cherkasy region (including Khrystynivskyi district, Eastern Podillia) the application was mostly monochromatic or two-colored. Usually the application had the form of a complex floral ornament, located on the outer garment of fur along the right hem and in its lower corner, on the chest, hem, cuffs. Peasants wore appliques with geometric ornaments on cloth clothes.

An important place along with applications in the decoration of clothing was occupied by accessories, performing both a utilitarian role and an aesthetic function. For example, homemade buttons, loops, etc., woven from leather, cord or made of wood, colored woolen threads originally and harmoniously complemented the whole composition of the dress (Funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, Sun - 11/103; Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 437, 894, 2942, 3388). In some places, accessories became the main decoration of the product (in particular, «round claws» from the Cherkasy region). However, beginning at the end of the 19th century, the people of Podillia began to gradually replace their self-made accessories with factory models.

Consider in more detail the combination of the above methods of decorating on shoulder fur products and upper products made of fabric and fur. Thus, women's and men's fur tank tops lived in the territory of Bukovynian Podillia (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 40, 1004), in Transnistrian districts of Western (Borshchiv, Buchach and Zalishchyk districts) (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1145, 2949) and sometimes Central (Kamianets-Podilskyi district) (Funds of the state historical and cultural reserve «Mezhybizh», KN - 648) Podillia. Moreover, the Bukovynian Podolians wore fur tank tops of various lengths and cuts under the names «keptar» («kep- tarets», «keptarik», «kiptar», «kiptar», «kozhush», «kozhushok», «leibik»), as in the Hutsul region, and «Mintyan» («mintyan», «muntyan», «tsurkanka» («hutsu- lyak»)). Ukrainians in Western Podillia mostly called fur tank tops «leibyks» and sometimes - «brushlaks», «keptary», «keptaryks», «fur coats», «short fur coats», «half-fur coats». Occasionally fur «leibs» were found in the Kamianets-Podilskyi district of Central Podillia.

In general, regional, local and narrow-local (local-zonal) features of the above-mentioned fur breastplates were most clearly seen in the complex set of material, cut, technique and artistic features of their decoration. We distinguish three types of Podolsk fur tank tops: Bukovyno-Podil (Zastavniv and Khotyn), West Podil (Borshchiv, Buchach and Zalishchyk) and Central Podil (Kamenets).

Bukovyno-Podilsky straight-backed keptars, «folding» cut with a standing collar and length to the waist or slightly below the waist and keptars with a shoulder seam, low stand-up collar, extended to the bottom and length to the thighs around the neck, armholes («groin») and along the lower edge of the product were lined with black or gray sheepskin (smush or doodle). Both types of keptars were also decorated with leather appliques («safyan kiptar»), usually yellow and brown, or woven or knitted cloth («play» fabric, «forced smushka»), made mainly of black or cherry woolen threads. Both festive and everyday keptars were unambiguously decorated to a greater or lesser extent with embroidery of multicolored woolen threads or mouline («dramas»). The embroidery was performed on the very soft skin of a four-day-old lamb, and then sewn into the field of fur next to the smushka. Yes, Keptar from the village of Khreshchatyk, Zastavnivskyi district, Chernivtsi region (1850-1899) origin, straight cut, white belt-length, lined with a cherry (dark brown) leather stripe and black doodle around its neck, armholes, along the saws and at the bottom. And also decorated with two pockets sewn from two pieces of black and two pieces of cherry leather and applique along both saws of black sa- pyan («sofiian») in the form of geometric ornamental motifs - «teeth» around the armholes, along pollen and the lower edge of the product and parallel leather strips with geometric motifs of type of tips with lateral, twisted inwards, horns («curls») and straight horns. Between these ornaments were also strips of fur and a row of white leather - a vertical strip of leather with thick horizontal cuts, between which alternately intertwined cherry wool thread, thus forming a geometric ornament. Moreover, the pockets and strips of «teeth» and «curls» were lined around with red, green and purple woolen threads, which were simultaneously twisted into loops. To the applied elements woolen cotton was sewn with factory thread in the attachment method. Also on the back Keptar at the bottom of the master additionally had three bushes of applique of three leaves, lined with green and purple woolen circles. Leather knots performed the role of buttons (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 1569).

On the other hand, the Bukovynian Podolians always decorated knee-length, trapezoidal, with a shoulder seam and a low stand-up collar, around the neck, armholes, along the saws and at the bottom with ferret fur and mostly white leather silk with colored woolen ornaments, leather ornaments. motifs «teeth» and «curls» and embroidery on canvas or leather, as well as on the side and shoulder seams. In particular, the Muntians of the 1890-s used the village. Goroshivtsi, Zastavnivskyi district, decorated, as noted above, with ferret fur and silyanka. In addition, double strips of fur and silyanka with red and green woolen threads were placed along the saws and at the bottom of the products, and between them double strips of woven or knitted red cloth embroidered on top with yellow thread. Single strips of fur, silyanka and embroidered cloth decorated the neck, armholes, shoulder and side seams. And the strip of cloth along the fasteners was decorated in the form of «teeth», with embroidered corners of white, blue and red vegetable motifs of leaves stitching and yellow-green rows of «goat» and yellow-blue and yellow-green flowers-sundews stalk. At the same time, the muntian in the corners of the clothing was appliqued with a «curl» motif of the same red cloth, edged with brown woolen threads, sometimes twisted in a loop, and sewn with shop thread into an attachment embroidered with a row of goatskin and flower stitches. Leather knots served as a clasp (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 40).

Western Podolsk fur breastplates had both similar and different features from Bukovyno Podolsk. Thus, in the Borshchiv district, tank tops were sewn with a «folding» cut, mostly without a collar, short (32-42 cm long), with lowered armholes, to which occasionally sewed short sleeves (maximum to the elbow). Thread buttons or leather knots were used as a fastener. The neckline, armholes (or the bottom of the short sleeves), the front saws (single or double stripes along the ornament) and the bottom of the products must be lined with black stripe (rarely doodle), as well as shaved leather («boxing») or woven black or cherry canvas, leather applique, decorative seams, etc. The Borshchiv subtype of fur tank tops was characterized by three variants in terms of decoration and ornamentation: - decoration with appliques with geometric or floral ornamental motifs; - decoration embroidery with floral ornamental motifs; - combining decoration with applique and embroidery at the same time (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1145).

Decorating fur tank tops with applique with geometric ornaments was common in most villages of Borshchiv region. Finishing elements were cut or «hewn» (a narrow local name used by local furriers) from a thin factory cloth of brown, cherry or green color. Emphasis was often placed on the decoration of the leibiks on the ornamental stripes (single or double) along the fasteners on the front saws. In addition, the side seams and pockets (one, two, three or four) were decorated with decorative seams goat («pigtail»), curve (curve, shtapivka) and stebnivka, or neckline, armholes and the bottom of the product - applique motifs «teeth», and side seams - motifs «curls» (or «ram's horns»). Ornamental stripes also consisted of separate or interconnected geometric «curls» («ram's horns»), as well as on the keptars of Bukovynian Podillia. Again, Borshchiv masters outlined the applied elements and motifs (circled, sheathed) with a cotton wool thread (hiding at the same time the stitching line), mostly black, which was sewn to the product with a strong enough shop «coil» thread, also in the way of attachment. At the same time, the slow one was twisted into loops - the so-called looping. In addition, applied ornamental motifs inside sometimes embroidered with a row of stitches goat and flowers stitching, and the pocket, in this case - of black woven fabric - rows of goat technique and circles technique stitching in the corners of the pocket (s. Dzvynyachka, Borshchiv district) (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1427).

Applications with geometric patterns were also used to decorate «bunds», «fur coats», «fur coats» or «fur coats», which were mostly used in the north-western and central villages of Borshchiv region. However, their ornaments on the chest consisted of only a few, unconnected, toothed motifs of leather or cloth, similar to the tips arrows (or shamrocks) and sometimes with corners embroidered with stitching. The side seams, the edges of the short sleeves and the hem at the bottom of these fur products were framed with a toothed strip. Yes, «fur» from the village. Shuparka was lined around the neckline, the edges of the short sleeves, along the front saws and at the bottom with a black stripe, cherry ribbon (woven fabric), black slow attachment and a decorative zigzag seam - a curve. The side seams are decorated with leather applique motifs «teeth», edged with black and red cotton in the attachment, which is twisted into loops, the ornament along the fasteners contained separate applied toothed motifs such as arrowheads, and its three leather pockets - «goat» embroidery and stitching (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 5510). In turn, «bund» («fur coat») from the village. Pyschatynka had a black stripe around the neckline, a green leather stripe and a cherry ribbon (woven cloth) embroidered with a goat and a curve seam, and around the edges of the short sleeves, along the front saws and at the bottom - a black stripe, a green leather stripe and applique leather «teeth», edged with black cotton in the attachment, which is twisted into loops. The lateral seams are decorated with a silyanka with liquid horizontal cuts and application from skin «teeth», with similar edging. The applique ornament along the clasps was formed from disjointed leather motifs of shamrocks with embroidered corners. Two white leather pockets were decorated with leather trim and «teeth» of black color, as well as embroidery with a goat, a curve and a stitching - on the pockets and a stitching of a plant motif - above the pockets (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 245).

At the same time, it was then that the researcher L. Bulgakova-Sytnyk included the so-called «artisan leibs» (from the name of local furriers-artisans), which were in use in many villages around the village of Melnytsia-Podilska, in the first variant of decorating Borshchiv tank tops. These products were decorated with leather or sewn along the clasp dress stripes embroidered with a row of stitches seam goat multicolored woolen threads (Bulgakova-Sytnyk, 2005, p. 161).

The second variant of decorating fur tank tops of Borshchiv region with embroidery with floral ornamental motifs was worn in the villages of Germanivka, Dzvyniachka and Kryvche, Melnytsia-Podilska township and neighboring settlements. By the way, their cut and location of the decor coincided with the cut and decoration of leibiks with geometric applications. The plant patterns had the form of flower garlands 4-6 cm wide, which were mostly made of straight smooth, gapt and stitching or counting (straight or oblique) smoothness and stitching with colored woolen threads or small beads («beads», «spots»), bugles and small blown glass beads. The edges of the saws were lined with black stripe (doodle) and colored ribbon or knitting (knitting) of black wool and a decorative seam. Overhead or slit pockets were edged with black wool in an attachment with twisted loops and woven fabric with rows of goat stitches, «suns» or bouquets of flowers were embroidered on the pockets, and over the pockets - often bouquets of flowers with a straight or counting surface with a stitch. In particular, in the village of Germanivka there is a white leibik around the neckline and front saws (double stripes) was lined with black doodle, goat seam and cherry woolen thread in the attachment, around the armholes and at the bottom - knitting of black wool and also goat and cherry woolen thread in the attachment, and on the side seams - rows of goat and wool in the attachment. Along the clasps, the leibik was decorated with individual floral motifs embroidered with a counting seam and a stitch with a leather circle inside the flower or without. However, the product contained two slit pockets, decorated at the top with a wide strip of white cloth, edged with black wool in an attachment, which is twisted into loops, and decorated with a geometric-floral pattern technique of counting cotton threads. Over pockets a bouquet of flowers, made by counting smoothness and stitching was located (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 419). Examples of the addition of embroidery with woolen threads of floral ornaments with beads and I or sclerus and small blown glass beads are fur tank tops from the village. Kryvche and Melnytsia-Podilska township. Yes, Leibik from the village. Curved around the neckline, armholes, along the front saws (double stripes) and at the bottom of the product was lined with black doodle, pink and black (the latter embroidered with orange sclera) ribbons, blue woolen thread in the attachment and seam goat and green goat seams - black ribbon with bugles, blue wool thread in the attachment and goat green thread. Along the clasp, the saws were decorated with a garland of floral ornaments, made of counting smoothness and stitching with multicolored woolen threads. Four buttons were made of the same wool. The two patch pockets were lined at the top with a wide strip of black woven cloth embroidered with goat, edged with black wool in an attachment, which is twisted into loops and decorated with a stitch on the motif of «sun». And above the pockets was a bouquet of flowers, made of stem (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2898). In turn, the Leibik from the village of Melnytsia-Podilska had a similar decoration, only plant garlands along the pollen contained embroidered flowers not only threads, but also transparent white and opaque yellow, blue and red beads and small blown glass beads of dark gray color. The embroidery techniques on the two lower - larger - pockets also differed. Yes, they resembled the previously described slit pockets with a wide strip of white cloth at the top. The pockets were edged with black wool techniques in attachments (loops) and obmetitsa, cotton colored threads - half-cross and transparent beads. Techniques were performed with a geometric-floral pattern. The two upper patch pockets in shape and decor corresponded to the above example, only were supplemented by blown beads and the technique of kruchenka (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1024).

Leibiks, decorated with a combination of applique and embroidery at the same time, mostly occurred in the Transnistrian and central villages of the Borshchiv district. Embroidered and appliqued ornamental motifs were arranged in two parallel rows along the clasp. Usually in the outer row sewed applications («curls», «suns», etc.) of cloth or leather, and in the inner - embroidered with woolen colored flowers with leaves. And the side seams and edge sections of these so-called «leibiks with leaves» were decorated following the example of leibiks with applique. In addition, there were other ways of placement and the nature of the motifs of jewelry in this version of the chest. In particular, Leibik with the nature of the motifs of jewelry in this version of the chest. In particular, the leibik from the village of Kryvche around the neckline, armholes, at the bottom and along the front saws (double stripes) was lined with black doodle, green woolen thread in the attachment and seam black goat, and on the side seams - three rows of goat and red and green wool in the attachment. Along the clasps, the leibik was decorated with individual «sun» motifs made of leather circles, complemented by a woolen thread attached to the attachment, which was twisted into loops, and with five buttons made of colored woolen threads. The tank top was also characterized by two slit pockets formed by a wide strip of cherry woven cloth, edged with black wool in an attachment with looping and embroidered with rows of seam «goat» and leaves counting smooth colored woolen threads (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 1145).

In the Buchach district of Western Podillia, fur tank tops were used, starting from the southern villages of Beremiany, Vozyliv, Gubyn, Mykolaiivka, Snovidiv, and all the way to the northern settlement of Zoloty Potik, which was considered the center of Leibik creation. Fur coat shoulder products of one variant prevailed here - straight-backed, elongated (50-54 cm), with shoulder seams and with a standing band collar, edge cuts which were lined with shaved colored leather, a «brush» of calfskin, also often colored wool in the attachment and seam goat, and along the fasteners and a black sheep's eye. The side and shoulder seams of the Buchach leibiks were decorated with a multicolored woolen thread with the seams of a braid and a goat (or a cross) and wool with attachments or sewn narrow strips of leather. In addition, for example, along the front saws of the Golden Stream tank tops made of fur were decorated with appliqued sapyan «teeth» in the form of arrowheads, which were interspersed vertically with rows of embroidery seams of a goat or a curve (shtapivka). On the tips of the teeth embroidered motifs «butterfly», and at the end lines - «suns». Overhead, rounded pockets were decorated with a composition of circles, embroidered with a stitch or a curve with thin woolen threads «kot-syk». Similar in the way of decoration fur shoulder components were widespread in some Transnistrian villages of Horodenka district of Ivano-Frankivsk region. Instead, leibs from the Buchach village. The Beremians differed from the above only in the decoration of the saws and pockets. Here also applied along the clasp alternation of applications of leather motifs «teeth» such as arrowheads of green and red colors, edged with wool in attached and embroidered on the tips of «but- terflies» with short rows of seam goat and also «butterflies» on its ends. And in the patchwork, rounded pockets, there was a combination of applied ordinary «teeth» of red sapyan with embroidered goats and curved rows and stitching of three separate «suns» with green wool (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2914).

Finally, in the Zalishchyk district of Western Podillia, two variants of fur tank tops were widespread: short (38-40 cm), without shoulder seams, with an extended shoulder line, and elongated (58-62 cm), with shoulder seams, slightly extended at the bottom. In general, local craftsmen decorated them with an application of connected or separate geometric («sheep's horns» («curls»), «teeth», «curves», «suns») or vegetable (oak leaves, «sun-flowers», trifoliate) flowers («lilies») (motifs of leather (sapyan («Sofia») or embossed leather) and I or of a thin factory cloth (usually cherry color), embroidered with decorative seams (wool in the attachment, goat and stitching) (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 275, 2069, 2949).

In particular, the edge sections of short fur labels were decorated with a stripe, shaved leather and applique with a cloth or sapyan motif «teeth», often with decorative seams curve (s.°Torske) or woolen thread in the attachment, which is twisted into loops (s. Lisichnyky) or without looping. Along the clasp, these embroidered ornaments were complemented by a ribbon made of cloth, embroidered curve (shtapivka), a line of leather silk («bulkheads») and a strip of interconnected applique leather motifs «curls» or «ram's horns», «teeth» and «curves». The side seams were decorated with a silyanka (with teeth on the sides, three straps in the middle) or a strip of colored sapyan, which was embroidered on both sides with two rows of goat («tangled») or two twisted woolen threads in the attachment. Two or four semicircular patch pockets performed from ordinary or embossed leather or a combination thereof. The upper edges of the pockets were decorated with a toothed or straight strip of shaved leather or cut with teeth, edged with wool in an attachment with a loop, and inside often embroidered with a goat and a quilt. Leibiks from the village of Chanterelles often contained a decorative lined striped collar, framed on the outside with a strip of double teeth - made of cherry cloth and embossed leather (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2069).

Fur shoulder products of the second variant, which were in use only in the southern villages of the Vynohradne, Zozulyntsi, and Synkiv districts (formerly Bohdanivka), had shoulder seams, as did the Bukovyno-Podilsky muntians. On elongated Zalishchyk tank tops applique ornament along the clasp consisted of unconnected geometric motifs «curls» and a separate plant motif «flower-sun», located in the lower corner of the field. In some places, «curls» could alternate with appliqued plant elements of oak leaves or trifoliate flowers («lilies»). In the same way Podolsk masters designed the side seams. Instead, the shoulder seams, armholes and fur floors were decorated with a complex combination of leather and serrated edging. At the same time, all the applied ornamental motifs were outlined with black woolen thread, twisted into loops («sticks») and sewn with shop thread into the attachment. And be sure to cut the edges of the floors and armholes of Leibik sleeves were lined with black smush (Bulgakova-Sytnyk, 2005, p. 162). The domestic scientist G. Horyn also noted the common features in the decoration of Zalishchyk fur tank tops of Western Podillia and Zastavnivsky keptars of Bukovynian Podillia (Goryn, 1986, p. 67).

Occasionally, elongated fur leibiks (about 65 cm) without shoulder seams, slightly extended to the bottom, were also found in the Kamianets-Podilskyi district of Central Podillia. They were sewn from light brown leather and complemented by bright brown fur. In addition, around the neckline, armholes and along the front saws decorated with a row of decorative seam goat red woolen thread, and at the bottom with three rows of goats in red and blue (Funds of the state historical and cultural reserve «Mezhybizh», KN - 648).

Ukrainians in Podillia also used a combination of sewn ornaments and embroidery to decorate their outerwear from cloth and fur. First, consider the three most typical Podolians options for decorating the estate outfit of home-woven, rarely factory, cloth. The first option was to decorate these components of the traditional costume with braided cords of colored wool. They were sheathed around butt seams and edge cuts on brims, sleeves and collars in the form of straight or jagged lines or with loops. This is how sardaks and siriykas were decorated in Zastavnivsky and Khotyn districts of Bukovynian Podillia, Gunkas and Sardaks in the Transnistrian districts of Western Podillia Central Podillia, etc. For example, Bukovyno-Podilsky sardak from the village of Orestivka of Khotyn district contained decoration with a dark brown (black) woolen cord in a straight line on all edge cuts, and a cord with its looping around butt seams on front saws and along the line of sewing the collar-rack. Fasteners looked like three knots from a cord under the local name «bovtychki» (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 273). Similarly decorated with dark brown woolen cord and West Podolsk sardak (serdak) from the village. Torske of Zalishchyk district and gunka from the village of Pylypche of Borshchiv district (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2627). However, in addition to the clasps made of cord, the sardak also had top ties made of the same material, with multicolored woolen corners (balls) at the ends, and buttons made of colored wool (orange and purple) were used instead of clasps made of cord. Central Podolsk Gunka from the village of Kadyivtsi, Kamianets-Podilskyi district, with a deferral the collar was lavishly decorated with green cord in double rows along all the edge cuts, the sewing lines of the side wedges and the black velvet overhead valves, and the short horizontal rows near the fasteners. Rows of cords mostly ended in green tassels (corners) (Funds of Kamianets-Podilskyi State Historical Museum-Reserve, CPC - 92).

The second variant of decoration of dress upper products is a combination of applique with cords with embroidery with colored woolen and sometimes silk threads from Buchach and Husiatyn districts of Western Podillia, Chugains of the central and southern districts of Eastern Podillia (Zhmerynsky and Mohyliv- Podilskyi districts, Vinnytsia region) and opanchas, chuhains of the central and southern districts of Central Podillia (Derazhnyanskyi, Kamianets-Podilskyi, Novoushytskyi and Khmelnytskyi districts). In general, cords lined again the edge cuts and sewing lines of individual parts, and with the help of embroidery, the main decorative emphasis was made by the masters on the hoods (caps, beards, Virgin Mary, folds, hoods, caps, turn-down collars (folds), right breastplate and the bottom of the sleeves. Podolians usually used simple geometric ornamental motifs, namely, circle, square, triangle, rhombus, lattice, figure eight, zigzag, parallel lines, and others. Yes, the armor from the village. Kryvche (Funds of the National Museum of Ukrainian Folk Decorative Art of Ukraine, B - 3327), Borshchiv district of Western Podillia is decorated with a white cord. Chugaina female from the village of Noskivtsi, Zhmerynskyi district, Vinnytsia region, from Eastern Podillia, decorated with red woolen cord and goat embroidery with green threads (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 2783). Dark brown festive chugaina from the village of Pashkivtsi, Khmelnytskyi district, Central Podillia, was characterized by the presence of a sewn-on rectangular collar embroidered with white and green threads, interspersed with applications of red woolen cord in the form of straight, toothed and looped lines. Also on overhead velvet valves, sewn on both sides, and velvet pumped cuffs, the application of red cord and woolen corners was combined with embroidery techniques goat and quilting and wool in the attachment (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 731). In general, this Podolsk chugaina resembled the inherent features of the Lemko «chuga».

The third option is to combine stripes of thin factory cloth (often embroidered) with applique cord. Such products were found in Bukovynian Podillia and mostly in the northern districts of Western, Eastern and Central Podillia, although in some places they were found in other districts of these local zones. For example, Bukovyno- Podilska manta from the village of Orestivka of Khotyn district is decorated around all edge sections and along a large folding quadrangular collar with a blue cord color. Also in the corners of the turn-down collar in front and behind was an applique of dress triangles and circles of yellow, green and red colors in a harmonious composition (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 59). In turn, the East Podolia women's retinue from the village of Kobeletske, Tyvriv district, Vinnytsia region, with a narrow shawl collar, was characterized by a decor with the help of colored edging, dark brown soutache and green woolen cord (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 2049). And the central Podolsk armor from the Novoushitsky area with a collar-resistant and rectangular deposit, length to a waist, was sheathed by a black cord around the edge sections, and on the cover there was a combination of applique cord and dress colored triangles with embroidery technique stitching motifs «sun» (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 2806).