Varieties of sewn and printed jewelery in the decor of the traditional dress of Ukrainians of Podillia in the second half of the XIX - early XX century

As for the fur outer garments, the Ukrainian peasants of Bukovyna and Western Podillia and to a lesser extent the masters of Eastern and Central Podillia decorated the coats especially generously. In general, all coats were lined with sheepskin, astrakhan, ferret fur or «brush» of calf wool around the edges, on the collar and in some pockets. In addition, there were two options for additional decoration of Podolsk mantles: - combining the application with canvas, cloth or leather (color sapyan or embossed leather), ribbon, leather silk, woolen balls (tassels made of cotton threads or leather tassels), and sometimes even tanned leather «yurivka» and dyed shaved leather «flute» or «boxing» (Western Podillia) with embroidery techniques goat (braid), chain, counting or artistic (hapt) smooth surface, chain, stem seam, stitching, shtapivka (curve), in the attachment with or without looping, machine stitching; - by means of a sheepskin smush on lines of stitching of details on breast saws of a product and occasionally insignificant application from skin around a bottom of sleeves (or leather tassels a little below a waist line, etc.) or embroidery by wool in attachment along the edge sections. The location of the decor was interdependent on the type of cut of the mantles (straight or detachable at the waist). For example, straight-back mantles were mostly decorated with stripes, appliques or embroidery on the collar, around the sleeves, slit pockets, bottom of the product, front saws and sometimes in the lower corner, usually the right saw (it went slightly to the left), and detachable - along the edges collars, at the waist and sewing details (inserts on the chest or back, side wedges, slit pockets), occasionally in the lower corners of both front saws, and additionally at the bottom of the sleeves above the finish of their edge cuts.

In particular, Bukovynian Podolians liked coats without shoulder seams, short straight-backed (slightly below the waist) and long with a cut-out waist (below the knee or down). They were decorated according to the first option - a rich application of silkworms, «hooks», flowers of colored sapyan and or geometric motifs of woven cherry or black cloth («teeth» and «curls»), edged with wool in an attachment with loops and often supplemented with decorative seams goat, curve. Local craftsmen also wove tassels (wool, «reins») from wool or leather, hung them on ropes or straps, tied them in front and threw them behind their backs. Edge sections of mantles lined with smushka or ferret fur. For example, a mantle with a detachable waist, length below the knees from the village of Dobrynivtsi, Zastavnivskyi district, decorated around the neckline, bottom of the sleeves, bottom of the product and front saws with a black stripe, silyanka (with green-red woolen ornament), applique from a strip of leather. teeth «, edged with a decorative seam in the attachment with looping (alternation of double loops and loops in the form of shamrocks) with green and red woolen threads. An applique in the form of a strip of woven cloth embroidered by a goat was sewn along the fasteners cherry color with motifs «curls», edged with colored wool in the attachment with loops. The side wedges were also decorated with this applique, but made of leather, as well as supplemented with a silyanka and vertical rows of motifs such as arrowheads made of cherry and black cloth and sapyan flowers. The line of the detachable waist of the mantle contained an application with an alternation of cherry linen rhombuses with wool embroidered in the attachment, with looped corners and, edged in the same way, a silyanka, also with leather leaves. The side seams were also deco-

rated with a silyanka with edged sapyan «curls». In the lower corners of the front saws and at the bottom of the sleeves above the application on the edges slices of applique cherry roses with brown sapian leaves were placed in the sections. Finally, the line of armholes and suturing of side wedges to applications was surrounded by a wavy seam of the curve type with red woolen thread (Funds of the Chernivtsi Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, EFA - 59).

The traditional short-field white coats, knee-length or thigh-length (about 60108 cm) in the Transnistrian districts of Western Podillia (especially in the Borshchiv and Zalishchyk districts), as well as in the Hutsul, Pokuttya, and Pokuttya districts, were similar to the ornaments of Bukovyno-Podolsk fur products. Bukovina. These are inflectional type, detachable at the waist mantles with neat floors, lined collar or stand-up collar were characterized by decorating a thin strip (0.8 cm wide) of white, well-trimmed leather («yurivki») or leather silyanka of all seams on the inserts of the product. The peasants cut the edge cuts and collars with a smushka, a scribble, sometimes with a «brush» made of calf wool or in some places with a straight or serrated strip of cloth. And the edge cuts, collars and armhole lines of the sleeves were often bordered with dyed shaved leather under the local name «flute» (or «boxing» - the village of Dnistrove, Borshchiv district). Finished here, too, according to the first option in the form of a complex of embroidery and applique (thin factory cloth cherry, green or black, sapyan, embossed leather) motifs «ram's horns» («curls»), «curls», «teeth» and «curves», or the type of arrowheads along the clasp on the chest and waist line. In addition, all the applied motifs were edged with colored wool in an attachment with loops. The most important detail in the decor of the West Podolsk mantles of Borshchiv, Buchach, Zalishchyk and Chortkiv districts were considered to be side wedges from the waist line with a crown-like composition, embroidered or appliqued motifs, and decoration along the clasp, side seams, sometimes in the lower arms marginal sections (often in Borschiv mantles). Embroidery was performed with woolen or silk colored threads using the techniques of gapt, plait, chain and decorative seams goat, stitching, shtapivka (curve) or wool in the attachment with looping. Buttons were made of sheared woolen threads (balls) or leather knots, decorated with or without colorful woolen threads. It should be noted that the mantles of Borshchiv and Zalishchyk districts were characterized by a greater wealth of sewn ornaments than the same mantles of Buchach and Chortkiv districts (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 214, 390, 2085, 2086, 2108, 2224, 2240, 2942, 3035, 3036, 3388, 9094; Funds of the Ukrainian Center of Folk Culture «Ivan Honchar Museum», CN - 12448).

In addition, in the Borshchiv region from the beginning of the XX century, along with «artisan» leibs, the so-called «artisan» mantles came into use - mostly products of town furriers from the settlements of Borshchiv and Melnytsia-Podilska. The main focus of their decoration was aimed at creating a simple composition of parallel embroidered goat or applique strips of cloth on the chest around the clasp and stripes of embroidery and ribbon around the waist. All the details were edged with woolen thread in the attachment method, and on the back along the waist line 56 with the application of «teeth» and wool in the attachment with looping (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 437).

The first variant of the method of decorating fur upper products also includes long-field coats (about 150 cm long), which lived in the central (Husiatyn and Terebovlya) and northern (Pidvolochysk and Ternopil) districts of Western Podillia. They were made with shoulder seams, a fitted back, a laid-out collar or a standup collar, slit side pockets and also lined with a smush or doodle of black (gray - Dovzhanka village, Ternopil district) color around the edge cuts, collar and pockets or in some places» of calfskin down or around the pockets and all the edge cuts, except the collar. And for decoration mantles local Podolians used much simpler than the Transnistrian techniques of decoration and not loaded with a significant number of ornamental motifs of the composition. For example, edging with dyed shaved leather edge cuts, collar, armhole lines, waist, side seams, side slit pockets and sewing line of structural parts on the back (Terebovlya district). Embroidery on such mantles was used only to highlight the structural forms of the product using the techniques of gapt, goat, stitching, shtapivka, attached mostly silky threads of green, red and black and often ended with multicolored wool or silky tassels (Polupanivka village, Pidvolochysk district). After all, it was used to decorate almost all connecting seams (ie on the shoulders, waist, sides) and edge cuts on the floors, sleeves, collar, etc. In the village. Vasylkivtsi, Husiatyn district, there are products with decorations such as Borshchiv «artisan» mantles in the form of parallel stripes embroidered with goat and stitching of white, beautifully embroidered leather on the chest around the clasp, as well as one strip around the waist, pockets, side seams and beams wedges with silky threads of green and red colors. An interesting addition to this coat is two long white leather cords with embroidered goat tassels at the ends hanging behind the product and decorating its edge sections with a «brush» of brown calf wool (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 2495). Instead, a white long-sleeved coat from the village. Dovzhanka of Ternopil district was embroidered with smooth, goat, quilting and wool in a simple composition of silk green and red threads on the chest around the clasp, and along the waist line decorated with stripes of embroidery and applique. The embroidery ornament on the chest had the form of geometric motifs arranged in rectangles, which were separated by a leather strap. In comparison with the Transnistrian coats, which were appliqued with colored cloth, in the western Podolsk central districts the fur estates the products were decorated with colored leather applique in a cut and surface way, occasionally combining this decor with embroidered with a chain of floral motifs on the back (Funds of the Ternopil Regional Museum, T - 253).

Ukrainian peasants of Eastern (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 2058, 2282, 2600, 2621, 2783) and Central (Funds of the state historical and cultural reserve «Mezhybizh», KN - 146, 147, 148, 151,438) Podillia, similarly to the inhabitants of the central and northern districts of Western Podillia and Middle Dnieper, fitted mantles «under the waist», with extended downwards and neat at the waist floors or long fields, inseparable at the waist, «torso mantles». In both cases, mostly with turn-down collars and only in some places with a high stand-up collar. But if in the second half of the XIX century eastern and central Podolians preferred white mantles, then with the beginning of the XX century the production of white coats and sheepskins is beginning to decline due to their higher cost and lower demand than red-tanned fur and sheepskin products.

East Podil and Central Podil mantles were decorated with two of the above options. Usually the first version of the decor with the help of embroidery techniques goat, braid, stitching, shtapivka and in the attachment or machine stitching, applications of colored sapyan or strips of white leather, woolen balls (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Art Museum, NK - 174), ribbons was characteristic of white coats. In particular, the coats of the northern districts of Vinnytsia region (Eastern Podillia) resembled the neighboring Kyiv fur products (Average Dnieper). Emphasis on their decoration was also placed on the applied motifs, placed in the lower corner of the right field. However, in contrast to the complex ornamental compositions of Hutsul, Bukovinian, Western Podolsk (Transnistrian) or Pokut mantles, simple patterns formed mainly from straight lines made by the techniques of plait (goat) or quilting with multicolored woolen threads prevailed.

Thus, the white torso mantle from the central district of Vinnytsia region - Orativskyi was lined along the edges with black stripes and decorated with applique of strips of white leather and embroidered with colored wool attached around the bottom of the sleeves and bottom of the product (Funds of the Orativ district museum, Book of Introduction. Cover without number from the ethnographic exposition). And the white wedding torso of a woman's coat from the southern district (Chechelnyk village) of Vinnytsia region contained decoration with black doodle, appliqued straight and wavy stripes and floral motifs of colored sapyan and wavy a multi-colored shop ribbon around the edge cuts, and a gray and black doodle on the turn-down collar. Also along the clasp and partly at the bottom of the right saw was a ribbon-shaped application of red and cherry sapyan with complex plant motifs (flowers with leaves and apples), and in the lower corner of the right piece of closing - also an application with a vase-like and ribbon floral ornament (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 2058).

In the Central Podolsk white crease-type mantles, cut at the waist, with a folded collar or stand-up collar, around the front saws, the bottom of the sleeves and the products, pockets and collars were also lined with black or gray smush or doodle. In turn, the seams along the armholes of the sleeves, waist, side wedges, slit pockets and often edge cuts were decorated with an application of a thin strip of white, well-made leather, sometimes supplemented with woolen balls (in particular, black - Slobidka, Novoushitsky district) (Funds of the Khmelnytskyi Regional Museum, T - 1693). In addition to application, such mantles could be decorated with embroidery around the neckline, armholes, waist line, saws, side parts of the back and bottom in the form of one or two rows of colored woolen thread by way of attachment, along the clasp, bottom sleeves, side seams and side sewing line wedges - rows of goat, and in the attachment and the geometric motif of «curves» wool in the attachment, and on the side wedges - also rows of stem seam, geometric motifs «curls» wool in the attachment and plant vase-like motif smooth. An example of such decoration is a white mantle with a stand-up collar from the village of Bakota (flooded in 1981) of Kamianets-Podilskyi district (Funds of Kamianets-Podilskyi State Historical Museum-Reserve, CPC - 1749).

The second variant of decoration, namely a woolen smushka (a doodle or a «brush» from calf wool) not only around edge cuts, on a collar and slotted pockets, but also on lines of stitching of details, on breast saws of a product and occasionally insignificant application with skin around the bottom of the sleeves (or leather tassels below the waist line) or embroidery with wool in the attachment along the edge cuts, mostly found in red-tanned coats. For example, a womens «red» mantle, cut at the waist with a stand-up collar from the village. Nemerche, Murovanokurilovets district, Vinnytsia region (Eastern Podillia), decorated only with a black woolen stripe around the edge cuts, on the collar, slit pockets and two chest vertical structural stitching lines (Funds of the Vinnytsia Regional Museum, T - 2621). Central Podolsk red-tanned trunk mantle from the village of Slobidka Novoushitsky district was bordered with a «brush» of calf wool along the front piece of clothing, the bottom of the sleeves and down - one strip, and around the stand-collar and clasp - two strips of this wool, as well as leather tassels just below the waist. Instead, the «red» mantle, cut at the waist, with a stand-up collar from the southern regions of Central Podillia, in addition to the black stripe around the saws, the bottom of the sleeves, down and on the collar, contained wool embroidery in these places and was supplemented with white tassels. threads hanging from the upper clasp to the line of the thighs (Funds of Kamianets- Podilskyi State Historical Museum-Reserve, CPC - 898).

Conclusions

Thus, in order to decorate the components of the folk costume of Podolsk Ukrainians of the second half of the XIX - early XX centuries used such techniques and techniques of application and placement of decor as weaving, beating, embroidery, stripes and stuffing in the form of applications or individual parts. Stitched and printed ornaments as a way of decoration were widespread among underwear, waist, chest and outerwear, headdresses, belts, jewelry, shoes and clothing accessories. Often sewn and printed ornaments played a central role in the overall composition, contributing to the balance and unification clothing elements of the traditional complex of Podolian clothing. Moreover, the influences of neighboring historical and ethnographic regions and districts, in particular, Bukovyna, Volyn, Opillia, Pokuttia, Naddniprianska and South-Steppe Ukraine, were seen in these types of methods of decorating the folk clothing of Ukrainians of Podillia. Thus, the varieties of Podolsk embroidered and printed ornaments can be considered as a valuable source of comparative information on the material and spiritual cultural heritage of Podillia in particular and Ukraine in general.

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