"Revolution" , " "

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16441912 . (, ). , . .

28.10.2019
7,0 M

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http://www.allbest.ru/

http://www.allbest.ru/

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58.03.01 " "

151

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2019

(1644-1912 .) , . (1761 .). . , XVIII - XX , 1987 . , , , . , , , . , , , , , , . , . , , .

Abstract

The traditional costume in the Qing period (1644-1912) was a certain set of items and clothing items that could determine the status and occupation of the owner. In the Qing epoch, the novel Dream of the Red Chamber by Cao Xueqin (1761) was published. Detailed descriptions of the details of clothing in the pages of the novel allow a comprehensive study of the Qing costume. The aim of the study is to explore the features of the costume of the Qing dynasty on the example of descriptions in the novel Dream of the Red Chamber, illustrative material for the novel of the period of the XVIII - beginning of the XX centuries, as well as the screen version of 1987.

To achieve the goal, the Qing costume and its elements were studied in art history literature, the novel Dream of the Red Chamber and the screen adaptation, and features and differences between graphic images, text descriptions and a real costume were revealed. In addition, the costumes presented in the screen version were studied, the differences between the actual material about the Qing costume and the visual were established. Based on a comparison of the real Qing costume and the image of costumes in the descriptions of the novel, illustrations and screen adaptation, it was concluded that the author of the novel, the artists and creators of the screen adaptation sought to match the clothes of the characters according to the costume canon of the Qing Empire, but at the same time preserved archaic details of clothing and accessories that have symbolic meaning within the plot of the novel. The costumes presented in the screen adaptation has the greatest similarity with the original Qing costume canon. It was concluded that the Qing canon of the costume received an almost accurate representation both in the literary descriptions and illustrations of the novel, and in the screen adaptation.

1. 1644-1912 .

1.1

1.2

1.3

1.4

1.5

2.

2.1

2.2

2.3

3.

3.1

3.2

1763 - , . (: sdmngzh, l喼 - ). , , , , .

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, - (: hngxu, ѧ) - 1980 , . . ( ). ?. ?????.: , 1903., . ( ). ?. ????. , 1921. . ( ). \B. ???s. : , 1923. , , .. .. - / . . . 1. ., 1997. . 5-20., . . : (- : ). ?w. ?]?\:s ???n ^. : , 2003. , , . .

. XX .. , .. : . / [. .. .. ; . .. ] . - . .: , 1966. 260 ., 8 . . : . . / . .. : . 247-254., . . , , . , . 1958 , .. . : [] / . . .. ; [. .. . .. .. ]. . 1-2. .: , 1958. . , . .. . . .. - . / . . . 1. ., 1997. . 16., .

, , .. .. . , , .., .. . . . / .. , .. . .: , 1975. . , . , , .

.. .. / : [. 6 ()]: / . .. . 2010. . 289-297. , . , , . , , .

, .. , .. : . . []. ., 1999. , .. .. : , , , . , 1958. , . // . . (Terra Humana). 2011. . 1, , 2011. . 173-178; . . : . . . / . ., 2011. . . // . 2006. . 1. . 27-36. , . .. , .

, , . Cammann S. Costume in China, 1644 to 1912. Philadelphia Museum of Art Bulletin, 1979, vol. 75, 326. p. 3-19. URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/3795325 (Accessed 1 December 2018)., , . Garrett V. Chinese dress: from the Qing dynasty to the present. Tuttle Publishing, 2012. , .

5000 , . (5000 ). vCt. ?d~. , 1985.. - , . , , .

, Yuan Jieying. Traditional Chinese costumes [an album] (2nd printing]. ed., China). Beijing: Foreign lang. press, 2005. (: ). , , . , , Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. , . : , , ( : , ). F. ?|vGM. : , 2014., . ( ). ?O. Ñ㕞?v. , 1986., , . ( ). , ?. ?v. , 1989. . , , .

廻 ( ). ????. / . . p?. : , 1955., . 11 11 . - . 1791 , 1763 - 80 , , , . 1791 , ., .

, , 1957 . ( ). . ??. , 1957. .1-2., . , . , 250 , .

(: hnglumng, ¥) 1987 , . . 36 , , . , , , , .

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1. 1644-1912 .

1.1

, , , . : , -, -, -.

- (XVII-XI . . .), , , . , , , .. / : [. 6 ()]: / . .. . 2010. . 289.. , - . , .

(: zhngu, ս 475-221 .) , , , . , , , - . . , , .

II . . , , . , . , .

. Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 139.. 1759 , , , . , 1759 , .., .. . . . / .. , .. . .: , 1975. . 114.. , 1766 , , .. / : [. 6 ()]: / . .. . 2010. . 290.. , 1763 , , .

1759 :

1. (: chof, ) , - (. 1.1, 1.2). , .

2. (: jf, g) (. 1.3, 1.4). .

3. (: chngf, 핞) (. 1.5, 1.6). . , .

4. (: xngf, s) (. 1.7, 1.8). , , , .

5. - (: yuy, J) , (. 1.9). -, ( ), ( ). .

, , , , , .

.

1.2

- (: pozi, ڎq) , - Cammann S. Costume in China, 1644 to 1912. Philadelphia Museum of Art Bulletin, 1979, vol. 75, 326. . 4. URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/3795325 (Accessed 1 December 2018).. , , ( ), , , , .. / : [. 6 ()]: / . .. . 2010. . 290.. , , . Yuan Jieying. Traditional Chinese costumes [an album] (2nd printing]. ed., China). Beijing: Foreign lang. press, 2005. . 27.. - (: guzi, q) Ibid., p. 28..

.., .. . . . / .. , .. . .: , 1975. . 63.. (. 2) - (: xigun, Ĺ), . - (: zhwi, γ), , - (: hngrngji, ޽) - (: ding, ) , Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 141.. - (: dnggun, ~) , , (. 3) Yuan Jieying. Traditional Chinese costumes [an album] (2nd printing]. ed., China). Beijing: Foreign lang. press, 2005. . 27.. . , - (kongqulng, E?), ( ), .., .. . . . / .. , .. . .: , 1975. . 63..

-, (. 1.1, 1.2). , . , , , , .., .. . . . / .. , .. . .: , 1975. . 63.. - (: magu, ) ( ) Garrett V. Chinese dress: from the Qing dynasty to the present. Tuttle Publishing, 2012. . 55.. , , , . - - (: pling, ), , . . , : , - . , - (: shln, q) ( ), - (: jnhu, ) .., .. . . . / .. , .. . .: , 1975. . 63..

(: buzi, ) (: bufng, ) - , (. 4). , . , 1759 , , . // . 2006. . 1. . 31.. , , , , Yuan Jieying. Traditional Chinese costumes [an album] (2nd printing]. ed., China). Beijing: Foreign lang. press, 2005. . 27., . . : . . . / . ., 2011. . 69.. , , . , - .

- (: choxu, ѥ) - (. 5). .

, - (: chozh, ) Garrett V. Chinese dress: from the Qing dynasty to the present. Tuttle Publishing, 2012. . 29. (. 6), - - (: ban, ) : - (: pinng, ?), - (: su, ), - (: xio, ), (: x, ӄ), - (: pifn, 厌) , .. : . . / .. . ., 1999. . 22. (. 7). , , .

-, - , . (5000 ). vCt. ?d~. , 1985. . 191.. , , . , , , , (. 8) . // . . (Terra Humana). 2011. . 1. , 2011. . 175.. , , .. : . . / .. . ., 1999. . 23.. , , . , . , , (: shu, ) .. : , , , . , 1958. . 209., . // . . (Terra Humana). 2011. . 1. , 2011. . 176.. : , .

- (: hbao, ו) (. 9) , . : (- : ). . 黹I:¥ΡĻ. : , 2003. . 15..

- - (: suy, ) (, , , ) , - Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 168., . . , .

1.3

. - , - , .

. - , - . - (. 10) , . (5000 ). vCt. ?d~. , 1985. . 193.. - (: bixn, ) (. 11) , , , , .

, , . ( ). C?. ?v. , 1989. . 154.: (: ao, ) , .. : . . / .. . ., 1999. . 21. (. 12) - Garrett V. Chinese dress: from the Qing dynasty to the present. Tuttle Publishing, 2012. . 192.. . - (: xipi, ?) , , , - (: ynjin, ]).

, , (. 13.11, 13.12) Ibid., p. 70.. , , . (5000 ). vCt. ?d~. , 1985. . 196-197., (: jfgu, g), (. 13.13, 13.14).

, , . , , - Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 162., .., .. . . . / .. , .. . .: , 1975. . 64. (. 13.15, 13.16).

- , -, , , Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 168.. .

, : , Garrett V. Chinese dress: from the Qing dynasty to the present. Tuttle Publishing, 2012. . 90-91.. -, . , , - , - () (. 14). , . . .

, -, , , , , - (: tunhu, Ż) . // . . (Terra Humana). 2011. . 1. , 2011. . 175. (. 15, 16). : , . , , .. : . . / .. . ., 1999. . 23.. - , Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 163., Garrett V. Chinese dress: from the Qing dynasty to the present. Tuttle Publishing, 2012. . 102.. (. 17), , - . - , .

, - (: pndixi, ~), Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 165. (. 18). , ( (. 19)), , 1664 , . . , . , , - . , , ( -).

-, . , , Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 158.. (. 20): , , Yuan Jieying. Traditional Chinese costumes [an album] (2nd printing]. ed., China). Beijing: Foreign lang. press, 2005. . 75.. , . -. - , , .

, . .

. - (. 21), , Garrett V. Chinese dress: from the Qing dynasty to the present. Tuttle Publishing, 2012. . 89..

- (. 22) , , , . , Ibid., p. 79..

(, ) (: fnggun, ) - (. 23), . ( ). ?O. Ñ㕞?v. , 1986. . 419.. , - , , , , , , , , - (: zn, ) . . 414..

- (. 24) , . . , , , : 1) ; 2) ; 3) , , , .. : . . / .. . ., 1999. . 77.. Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 156..

, - , (: din, ?) , , - . ( ). ?O. Ñ㕞?v. , 1986. . 414. (. 25). .

, , - ( ), , . - , -. , - - . , .. : . . / .. . ., 1999. . 85..

(: hzhi, ?), . , , - . (. 26) , , Zang Yingchun. Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments. Beijing: China intercontinental press, 2003. . 157..

1.4

, , , , . . , . , .

, . . , , , . , . , , (: xingqun, ?) , .. : . . / .. . ., 1999. . 89..

1.5

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