Corpus of perfume and cosmetic goods names and its parameters

Стаття висвітлює проблему дослідження парфумерно - косметичного номінативного регістру, втіленому у неймінговому корпусі. Дослідження здійснюється у мультиаспектному і мультиструктурному напрямках. Мультиаспектні особливості розглядаються як номінативний і інформаційний напрямки. Мультиструктурна специфіка відображається у поєднанні А-брендового (виробникового), В-базового (індивідуального),

С-родового (товарного), Д-функціонально-дескриптивного інтегрантів. Наступний рівень мультиструктурних особливостей пов'язаний із комбінуванням інтегрантів у більші структури - інтегратори. Інтегратори об'єднуються у більші корпуси номінативних товарних одиниць. Власне корпус складається з таких семантичних компонентів як квантифікатори, кваліфікатори, детермінанти. Корпус номінативних інтеграторів забезпечує виокремлення товарних одиниць і демонструє залучення певних номінативних засобів, а також певні семантичні відтінки соціальної стратифікації. Залучення номінативного регістру також відображене в структурі корпусу. Товарні одиниці асоціюються з їхніми номінативними інтеграторами. Процес дослідження номінативного корпусу складається з двох стадій селекції. На першій стадії селекції було виокремлено 54 класи товарних одиниць. На другій стадії було здійснено редукцію корпусу до 13 класів ольфакторних і колоративних товарів. Параметри, що було виокремлено у процесі параметризації можуть бути кількісними і якісними у їхньому взаємному функціонуванні і кореляції. Якість і кількість віддзеркалені у товарних типах, номінативних засобах, номінативному регістрі. Корпус товарних номінативних одиниць є інформаційною базою товарної продукції. Інформаційне ядро сформоване двома підгрупами. Перша підгрупа подає інформацію про ольфакторні характеристики, аромати, пахощі. Друга містить інформацію про оптичний ефект, забарвлення, тинькування, маскування.

Ключові слова: інтегрант, інтегратор, параметризація, номінативний корпус, товарна одиниця.

Main part

Giving the names of surrounding phenomena and objects which create the personal environment is a basic cornerstone of modern linguistic research. The investigation of this naming process is focused on the smallest naming units (words), biggest naming units (phrases) or even communicative units (sentences). All these building elements creating the article unit names exist in the frame of corpora or a huge corpus of perfume and make-up goods names. Choosing the names requires the correctness of choice. It means that any correct name indicates the individual features any of the definite object. Naming corpus creates onomastic space of perfume and make-up goods names which needs detailed and precise research.

The aim of the article is the investigation of perfume and makeup naming taking into consideration the collection of these names in the corpus of goods or article units. Perfumes and make-up belong to the specific goods which are consumed individually. They are recognized as products of impulsive demand. The main problem of these article units is difficulty of naming aroma, fragrance, odour in traditional verbal way. Perfume and make-up naming is based on the associative images which create potential recipient's positive mood. Perfume and make up nomination is called for reflecting olfactory preferences of the probable consumers. In this way the producer - nominator provides the selection of necessary nominative register components using navigation in the sphere of lexical store picking up and forming naming integrators.

The purpose of this article is the investigation of that lexical store part, involvement of which for creating integrants and corresponding integrators and final corpus helps to realize the reflexion of certain parameters. The topicality of research lies in the fact that perfume and make-up name corpus is not investigated essentially, particularly in the sphere of parametrization with the separation of qualitative and quantitative parameters. The object of this investigation is the set of parameters reflected in perfume and make-up goods name corpus, formation of these parameters and ways of their embodiment. The subject of the investigation are article unit names in the sphere of perfumes and make-up.

Publication analysis. Attempts of researching the naming corpus of perfume and make-up goods look very uncertain and weak without steady connected steps of penetrating into the separate naming corpora of article units. There is a steady tradition to analyze the present day perfume market using pyramidal structure. The top of that pyramid is created with the article units of selective cluster. The pyramid foot is built with goods of global components (L'Oreal, P&G) having a lot of brands in their portfolio. Social preferences were transformed under the influence of megabrands and new patterns of beauty [5, p. 899-901]. Aromatic, fragrant consumer goods are characterised with the tendency of strong odour resemblance which is known as «tyranny of identity» [3, p. 14-16]. Exquisite perfumes are connected with the revival of old traditions and recipes. Creation of new and revival of old fragrances, aromas are the alternative way of «sad», «plain», «common» smell of consumer goods [9, p. 682-684]. Artistic (selective, premium) perfumes don't have any direct advertisement, and internet is preferable mostly [12, p. 26]. Producer's name usage as a basic identificator has a very old tradition. It is recognized as a personal responsibility for high quality. That tradition may be traced in the oldest perfumery companies: Creed (founded in 1760), Houbigant (founded in 1775), Guerlain (founded in 1898). Guerlain started its activity with the production of cosmetic goods and only later the perfumery was created [1, p. 72]. Myth creation may lead to the brand destruction and its transformation into ordinary consumer article units. Between 1968-1978 perfume Chanel №5 was being sold everywhere in the USA, even in the drug stores [5, p. 898]. Nomination process consists of two stages - nomination in proper (creation of article unit names) and juridical assistance [7, p. 69-70]. Brand name market functions are very substantial. Belonging to the consumer memory any brand name should be very easy for pronunciation, remembering and have some sense [10, p. 194]. Having some sense the name of article units helps consumers to remember and recognize brand [6, p. 51]. Brand name should be associated with the category of goods. In addition, it should create mental image of the consumer's brain [2, p. 197]. Brand name should be functional and have strong positive associations or connotations, stable symbolic sense [11, p. 66]. Brand name peculiarities connected with the marketing support of desirable image should reflect product properties [2, p. 201]. Textual point of view was used for lipstick brand name analysis. As a result of research 14 classification groups were singled out [8, p. 596-597]. Harrison M.E. thinks perfume consumers to be abandoned for creating their own image situations, using linguistic associations as sense of direction [4, p. 8]. Patchwork looking research in the sphere of perfume and make-up naming shows that the naming corpora of these goods names have not been in the focus of steady linguistic investigation. These linguistic objects need further and systematical analysis.

Main information presentation. Perfume and cosmetic goods represented on the consumer market may be identified and differentiated by the potential consumers - recipients using corresponding goods names. These names shape out and frame out the informational space containing essential information about corresponding goods. Perfume and cosmetic names are source of relevant information for potential consumers. Simultaneously these names help recipients to choose and select definite article units. These features show that perfume-cosmetic goods names are multifunctional as they function in naming and information aspects.

These two aspects create and draw out naming-information space. For providing the objective linguistic research concerning the perfume and cosmetic goods names the primary total name selection was realized. That gave the opportunity of grasping the whole spectrum of article units which includes perfume names and even toothpaste names too. After the selection there were distinguished 54 types of corresponding goods types among the perfume and cosmetic goods names. The total number of perfume and cosmetic goods names is equal to 3430 correlating to 100%. The results of the primary selection is represented in Table 1. These results witness the leading de position of eau de parfum (there are 676 article units, their specific gravity is 19,70%.). There are 372 article units of eau de toilette, with the specific gravity 10,84%. Eau de cologne article units are equal to 303 (8,83%). The second position belongs to lipstick. That demonstrates popularity of this make-up. There are 198 (5,77%) article units. The third position is connected with nourishing face cream, there are 168 (4,89%) article units. That shows the high popularity of creams, especially applying the face skin. The fourth position is connected with bath and shower gel. There are 148 (4,31%) article units of that detergent. The fifth position is associated with face foundation. There are 132 (3,84%) article units. The sixth position belongs to a very popular make-up nail polish which has 124 (3,61%) article units. Lip gloss is represented with 110 (3,20%.) article units. It is primary selection that starts the process of quantitative (numerical) and qualitative parametrization. Qualitative aspect of parametrization means the selection of goods, article units of a certain quality grasping goods with olfactory, aromatic, fragrant, odoriferous quality. Article units were selected according to optical quality. It means the process of the colouration for colouring, tinting, masking, shading parts of face skin. Qualitative aspect transits into quantitative aspect which means the selection of 54 types of article units. The results of primary selection (Table 1) demonstrate the prevalence of article units connected with perfumes and make-up mostly. That is why it is reasonable to provide the secondary selection and to focus on the article units which may be grouped into the most popular and demanded olfactory ones (eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne) and decorative substances (mascara, eye shadow, lipstick, lip gloss, nail wear, liquid foundation, powder, colour corrector cream, blush, nourishing face cream). Results of the secondary selection are given in Table 1 too. There are 13 types of corresponding goods. The total number of article units is 2343. It correlates to 68,30% comparing with the primary selection corpus. The corpus of the secondary selection will be used for further research. The total number of the secondary selection corpus (2343) correlates to 100% and corresponding figures are given in Table 1.

In the process of transition from the primary to the secondary selection there happens the reduction of goods groups from 54 to 13. That causes the reduction of corpus of goods names from 3430 to 2343. Article units are represented involving lexical embodiment with naming integrators. Any naming integrator consists of four obligatory integrants, arranged in the strict order. The first position belongs to A-integrants which names the brand, manufacturer or producer of corresponding goods. This integrant is a formal marker of social stratification. Information aspect of A-integrant is twofold, indicating brand and social status of potential consumers. A-integrant functions as a main indicator in the goods varieties. There it marks corresponding social segments of the goods markets. A-integrants having connotative meaning create association in the mental sphere of consumers. These associations are connected with quality, price, prestigiousness of article units. The dense net of A-integrants helps consumers to realize initial, preliminary navigation and recognition among goods in the aspect of price policy, qualitative characteristics and corresponding social segment. A-integrant is a formal, conventional marker of consumers' social stratification. The first segment (I) is connected with brands of elite products. The second (II) segment is connected with reasonably priced goods. The third segment (I) is connected with consumer goods with low prices and satisfactory qualities. Linguistic nature of A-integrant does not reflect social stratification. Using the individual brand the manufacturer occupies a certain market niche. Goods marked with a certain A-integrant correlate with a certain price segment too. The first segment (I) is associated with a set of A-integrants (Dior, Estee Lauder, Fendi, Kenzo). The second segment (II) is associated with a set of A-integrants (Escada, Fragrances of France, Lancome, Perlier, Valentino, Victoria's Secret). Goods of the third segment (III) are associated with a set of A-integrants (Avon, Oriflame, Revlon). In the system of obligatory four integrants the third position belongs to C-integrant which may be recognized as genitive, article differentia. C-integrants provides discrimination of article units. Taking into consideration the results of secondary selection (Table 1) there are 13 differentiae of represented with C-integrants. They have very clear denotative meaning associated with the definite class of article units. Perfumes which are indicated with C-integrant eau de parfum demonstrate their semantic parameters reflected in the dictionary definitions. These definitions represent perfume as goods, article unit: a liquid produced and sold for its strong pleasant smell, often used on the skin [13]. Perfume or parfum is 20 - 40% oil and the highest concentration [18]. The basic features of that article unit is its substantivity, liquid with pleasant smell. Eau de toilette (the second goods type, as it is indicated in Table 1) demonstrates its semantic in comparison with eau de parfum: Eau de toilette, or toilet water is a dilute form of perfume. Eau de toilette is 10-18% oil [18]. The third goods type is eau de cologne or cologne. It is described as a perfumed liquid, composed of alcohol and certain aromatic oils, used in the toilet; called also cologne water and eau de cologne [19]. Semantic specification of the lexical unit cologne is revealed providing comparison with the first, second goods types: eau de cologne is a fairly weak, sweet smelling parfume [14], a mildly perfumed toilet water [17], in particular, cologne or eau de cologne is 3-9% oil [18]. The background of C-integrant is formed with lexical units representing a basic feature of these article units, it is olfactory property: pleasant smell, sweet-smelling. Taking into consideration the dictionary definitions it is perfume or parfum that is the initial unit of terminological system. Eau de toilette, eau de cologne are represented in the dictionaries as secondary units according to the initial unit which is closely connected with perfumes. The fourth goods type mascara demonstrates its semantics in dictionary definitions. Optical, in particular, colouring features are leading. The place of its usage is essential too: a cosmetic substance for darkening, colouring, and thickening the eyelashes, applied with a brush or rod [14]. A dark substance used to colour your eyelashes and make them look thicker [15].

Basic features of that make up are represented with lexemes describing colour (darkening, dark) and the place of usage (eye lashes). The same semantic tendencies happen in the fifth goods type eye shadow. There are the same tendencies in the sixth goods type (lipstick) and in the seventh goods type (lip gloss), in the eighth goods type (nail wear pro, nail polish). There are some common features for the ninth (face foundation) and tenth (body powder) goods types. C-integrant of such a popular make-up as body, face powder demonstrates its semantics indicating basic physical substantive properties: powder is a substance consisting of ground pulverized, or other wise finely dispersed solid particles. Any of various preparations in the form ofpowder; as certain cosmetics and medicines [19]. Light creator gel-cream (the eleventh) and blush (the twelfth) goods types have certain common features too. C-integrant indicating blush is semantically clear: powder blush - is cosmetics another name for blusher. Blusher is a coloured substance that woman put on their cheeks. A cosmetic applied to the face to imbue it with a rosy colour [14]. Blush is makeup used on the face and especially on the cheekbones to give a usually rosy tint. Also called blusher [18]. Rouge is a red powder or cream used as a cosmetic for colouring the cheeks or lips [16]. The place of application for that substance is indicated with definite lexical units (cheeks, face, cheekbones, lips). The colour spectrum is described with lexical units rosy colour. The thirteenth goods type (face) cream is represented as a medicine remedy, underlining intensive usage of that substance: a cream is a substance that you rub into your skin; for example, to keep it soft or to heat or protect [14]. A soft solid or thick liquid containing medicines or other specific ingredients applied externally for a prophylactic, therapeutic, or cosmetic purpose [15]. C-integrant contains some attribution giving some details of using that cosmetic substance: face cream is a thick substance that you rub into your face in order to keep it soft [14]. A thick cream used to keep skin on your face soft and smooth [15]. Hand cream is a cream that you put on your hands to make them feel soft and smooth [14]. A moisturizing cream for the hands [16]. Lexical units soft, smooth indicate the action of these substances on the skin. All these examples witness the fact that C-integrants are in the frame of perfume and cosmetic article terminosystem. If A-brand integrant is a formal, conventional marker of social stratification, C-genitive (article) integrant is a problematic marker of social stratification. There is only one exception in the descending chain eau de parfum > eau de toilette > eau de cologne. This gradation is formally connected with the concentration of expensive aromatic oils (20-40% > 10-18% >> 3-9%). That is why eau de parfum is connected with the highest (I) social segment, eau de toilette is formally connected with the middle (II) social segment, and eau de cologne is associated with the lowest (III) social segment.

In the system of obligatory integrants the final position belongs to D-functional-descriptive one. Multicomponent structure of D-integrant is created with monolexemic units (cellular, skin, male, natural, Paris, New York, woman, home) and even phrase units (very dry frizzy hair, second skin effect, firming and antiwrinkle day) which are mostly the features of substances with biological activity. D-integrant acts as a descriptor with a definite semantics and provides the potential consumers with the detailed enumeration of substantional properties, qualitative and quantitative of the goods, ways of packing, place of production: natural spray e 50ml 1.7 fl. oz. U.S.; Made in England. This Company, Wg 186 UK.100ml e 35 fl.oz. Volume 80%; 50 ml e vaporisateur, NN1 SPA England, 40 ml e 1.35fl. oz.U.S. This type of forming D-integrant is traditional for eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne. All these goods are liquids and quantitative information is represented here involving extralinguistic symbols-figures. Liquid volume is given in double system of measurement: ml and oz (millilitre and ounce) according to different traditions. System of proper names (geographical terminology) indicates the place of production. D-integrant of mascara is formed in a bit different way indicating the technology specification of this make-up production: 3 in 1 mascara for volumised, lengthened lashes without clumping; wide eyelook - Volumised, Extended, Lifted Lash look; instant Lash Extension. As mascara is a traditional make-up its D-integrant gives the information about its properties using the phrases created on the base of lexical unit lash: lengthened lashes, instant lash extension. Simultaneously some information is given indicating quantity of substance using figures. Toponymes indicate the place of production. Eye shadow D-integrant is formed in the same way giving the portions of information: water-proof e 7 ml, certified organic 7 ml/0.26 oz; London. D-integrants of lipstick and lip gloss are similar to previous ones: SPF 15; 3g; Avon cosmetics NN15 pa. England; with Shea Butter and Honey; extreme shine soft and light texture. In the case of lipstick (8h moisture) there is a list of substances (with Shea Butter and Honey) and this some features of this make-up (extreme shine soft and light textures). Nail polish belongs to the specific make-up with very chemical nature of these goods and D-integrant reflects this specification: Now! Longer lasting easier to apply; 4 og. 1.4. oz, Hardening and beautiful coat; High Colour High Shine e 5.5 ml 0.19 fl.oz.; precision line; fortifying and hardening. Enumerating nail polish properties the stress is given to its viscosity (hardening and beautiful coat precision line) and optical effects (High colour, High shine).

The better are characteristics of corresponding make-up the higher are their qualities. These features correlate with market segments. High quality make-up goods of the first segment contain expensive substances. They may be recognized as indirect indicators of social stratification. In the case of face foundation D-integrant the emphasis is made on specific parameters, in particular, substance quantity (e 150 ml; e 30 ml - 1 fl.oz), colouring features (Apricot Complexion), light protective action (Broad spectrum SPF 15): Summer Make-up; Sensitive Skin e 150 ml; moisture capture botanical sap e 200 ml 6.7 fl. oz; SPF 25 - PA⁺⁺⁺; Studio make-up Spectacular brightening Weightless perfection SPF 30 PA++. D-integrant is formed with subordinate phrases giving the information about season usage (Summer Make up), type of skin (Sensitive Skin), substances in the make-up (enriched with 4 Roses extracts), optical effect after using make-up (second skin effect), effectiveness of usage (up to 18 hours). D-integrant of body powder contains similar parameters (SPF 15; radiance softness and comfort SPF 10; 10g e NET WT 35oz; 6s pf 1.7. fl.oz.e 50ml; 3g 0,105 oz Paris). D-integrant of light creator gel-cream formed in the same way (flawless skin; 14-hour wear, e 30ml 1 fl.oz. all skin types 5 fl.oz/148 ml. Only use natural ingredients with proven benefits for your skin; Paula Begoun; urban advance, Minimized appearance of wrinkles in 1 ml). Optical and masking features are described with attributive subordinate phrases (pure radiance velvety, fresh replenished skin). The same information is given in D-integrant of blush (for sheer face color). D-integrant of nourishing face cream is characterized with individual filling which reflects the physiological, long lasting effect, list of substances, specific usage (Day SPF 20, Normal to Combination Skin; anti-wrinkle ultra-nourishing e 50 ml, enriched with shea 50ml 1.7 fl. oz., with white tea and unifying pigments medium, Nourishing ash tree concentrate, Dry to Very Dry Skin). D-integrant of face cream gives the information about quantity of substance (75 vl, 2.5 fl.oz, e 50 ml), place of production (Parish, Made in France), specification of usage (Dry to Very Dry Skin, All Skin Types), list of active chemicals, substances (with white tea; ash tree concentrate, with collagen and elastan; with glycerine, calcium, vitamin), physiological activity (anti-wrinkle ultra-nourishing minimize age sports, strengthens nails). Markers of social stratification happen in the structure of D-integrant. In explicit way markers put forward qualitative characteristics, indicating the position of a certain article unit on the highest segment of market. Place of production (Paris, Made in France, Made in Britain), expensive natural components (4 Roses extracts, jojoba oil, shea butter and honey botanical sap, ash tree concentrate, collagen, elastan, glycerine, calcium, natural ingredients, certified organic), quality stressing (intense colour, extreme shine soft and light texture) indicate in indirect way the relation and correlation of make-up products with potential consumers who buy mostly the first market segment products.

A-brand (manufacturer), C-genitive (article), D-functional - descriptive integrants are significant and involved into the process of forming the perfume and cosmetic goods name-integrator. The integrator demonstrates multistructural nature. The integrator completeness is achieved with the inclusion of the last integrant which is qualified as B-basic (individual) one. Within the structure of perfume and cosmetic integrator, having described A, C, D integrants, the specification of B-integrant looks very definite. It functions as an individual, basic, recognative article unit name. Its function is evident in the process of choosing a definite article unit. For example, if a hypothetical buyer means to buy American olfactory products, a customer may look at Estee Lauder (A-Brand, manufacturer integrant), if a customer is focused on eau de parfum (C-genitive, article integrant) with corresponding quantity and place of production 40 ml e 1.35 fl.oz. U.S. (D-functional-descriptive integrant), a customer should provide the last step of choice taking into consideration information Estee Lauder Pleasures Inside; Estee Lauder Sensuous Nude; Youth Dew Rich Luxuries (B-integrants) and pick up only with a desirable B-integrant. Returning to the set of integrants creating the perfume and cosmetic goods name it is reasonable to remember its multifunctional nature grasping name and information aspects. If C-integrant provides discrimination of article units, A-integrant indicates social stratification, B-integrant reveals its linguistic nature which is recognized with involvement of naming devices. B-integrant is represented with three types and functions as a naming unit-word, naming unit-phrase, and naming unit-sentence. B-integrant word takes place 191 times in 12 types of article units within the corpus of perfume and cosmetic goods names grasping 2343 integrants (Table 2). Involving a lexical unit-word for creating B-integrants is the first device for forming such examples as euphoria, poison, passion, princess, womanity, inflorescence, glamorous, exclamation, obsession, signature. B-integrant-phrase occurs 2130 times in all 13 types of article units the corpus of integrators (Table 2). Involvement of phrases for creating B - integrants is the leading device for forming such examples as Ageless bloom, Secret Fantasy, Anais Anais, Kiss and Blush, Yellow Diamond, Beautiful Life, Red Apple, Golden Peach, Precious Gold, Rare Sapphire. B-integrant-sentence is the least leading device for forming B-integrants as it happens only 22 times and only in the cases of five types of article units (Table 2). There are imperative sentences (Make no mistakes. Glaze' N Go. Live another day. Live another night. Kiss'n Fly. Live without regrets. Slip into… Love to the Fullest. Be delicious. Catch… me), declarative sentences (Tigress captivates. Love's Vanilla pop. Love's Sheer Petals. Love's Rain Scent. Love's Baby Soft. Love's White Vanilla), and some exclamatory sentences (Funny! Miracle so Magic!). Using the sentences for forming B-integrants witnesses the expansion and broadening of devices. Separation of B-integrants-sentences demonstrates the transition from traditional integrants (words, phrases) to more complex structures (sentences) where all components have their own individual semantics. Naming devices used for creating B-integrants and their distribution in the corpus of perfume and cosmetic goods names enable to provide parametrization of the whole naming corpus. The further parametrization may be realized grasping the naming register which has been compiled from different sources.

Having analysed the sub-corpus of B-integrants there has been found that the leading source are traditional onymes. They are subdivided into antroponyms and toponymes subgroups.

Appellatives are divided into some lexico-semantic groups. Borrowings are rather frequent. Artificially created words happen sporadically. B-integrant corpus has been separated into two leading groups: 1) B-integrants of onyme origin; 2) B-integrants of appellative origin. The first group has been formed with the process of transonymisation when one personal name becomes the source for another personal name. The second group has been formed with the process of transonymisation when one common name becomes the source for personal name. These names of onyme origin are divided into antroponymes and toponymes. Another substantial group is created from different lexico-semantic groups of appellative register. Further steps of analyses is based on the investigation of B-integrants selected within 13 classes of perfume and cosmetic goods. The first class of eau de parfum contains 676 article units. Within this perfume subcorpus there are 146 B integrants of antroponyme origin and 96 integrants belong to I market segment, 37 ones belong to II market segment, and 14 - III segment (Table 3). The leading tendency is involvement of personal names of owners or founders of fashion houses. This way of naming is traditional, as at the very initial stage of goods name creation producers used that way of naming for their new article units. In some cases it is problematic to differentiate properly antroponymes - names of company founders, owners, leading designers. Owners' names may change from time to time, but founders' names (especially famous and popular ones) may be used as attractions for a long period of time. Simultaneously popular designers' names are able to give additional attractiveness to the article units, transforming into the powerful goods names. The biggest portion of B-integrants were formed with personal names of prominent designers, outstanding persons of model business who broadened their production, having penetrated into the sphere of perfumery, in particular, Georgio Armani the founder of fashion house, later he started the perfumery there too. Some outstanding persons acted in the same way: Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Nino Cerruti, Donna Karan, Thierry Hermes, Ralf Lauren, Mary Kay, Ash, Paco Rabanne, Tommy Hilfinger, Dante Trussardi, Gianni Versace, Yves Laurent. Other persons came to the perfumery business jewellery design (Sotorio Bulgar, Charles Lewis Tiffany, Rene Lalique), or from fancy goods dealing (Thomas Burberry), professional sport (Michael Jordan, Rene Lacoste - the outstanding French tennisist and designer of sports clothes and later the owner his own perfumery line). One of the most famous name Gabrielle Chanel was transformed into Coco Chanel in 1905 when she opened a millinery establishment. In 1922 the outstanding eau de parfum Chanel №5 was introduced in the market. In the process of B-integrant formation some tendencies happen. Antroponymes may create the whole B-integrant (Dolce and Gabbana (I) - full variant, Dolce (I) - reduced variant), they may function as components of B-integrant (Dior Addict (I), Estee Lauder Pleasure Flower (I)) or occur within B-integrant which is mostly borrowing (Miss Dior Cherie (I), Dior Homme Parfum (I), Bulgaripour Femme (I)). When B-integrant contains antroponymes and appellatives simultaneously it is the fact of naming synergy, involvement of different sources of naming register makes B-integrant more attractive, noticeable, eyecatching. These naming tendencies dominate in B-integrants of perfumes belonging to I and partly to II market segment (Narciso Rodrigues (II), Narciso Rodrigues L'eau (II), Mademoiselle Lamani (II), Jovan Black Musk (II)). Among appellatives there are botanical terms (Flower) names of substances (parfum L'eau), coloration words (BlackMusk), social realities (Miss Mademoiselle).

In B-integrants belonging to III market segment there is no usage of personal names as they are not such strong attractants for potential consumers who are not familiar with those names according to their low social status. Famous actors' names are used for creating B-integrants in different ways. There are some persons who were active not only in cinema production and simultaneously they founded their own fashion houses with perfumery lines (Elizabeth Taylor (I), Christina Aguilera (I), Christina Aguilera Unforgettable (I)). There are some personal names chosen for their popularity (Pavlova (II) or notorious reputation who belong to a very high social group (Paris Hilton (II). Some representatives of Hot Couture and jewellery design tried to create own perfumery lines using famous names of their parents (Paloma Picasso (I)). In 1988 fashion house Christian Dion created perfume Fahrenheit (I) having used the name of the outstanding German physicist Gabriel Daniel Fahrenheit the inventor of the mercury thermometer and temperature scale. B-integrant Aura by Swarovsky (II) is created combining appellative Aure and antroponyme Swarowsky, the name of chemist who invented crystal glass for imitating diamonds. B-integrants of perfume names contain 59 toponymes which were created from different geographical names, 39 of them belong to the products of I segment, 20 to the products of II segment. Geographical names are used for creating B-integrants in different ways, in particular, as components indicating the of place of headquarters (Paris (I), Paris Premieres Roses 2014 (I), Jimmy Choo Flash London Club (II), Roma (II), Tokio Days (I), Tokio Fashion (II), London Beat (II)). B-integrants may be formed with toponymes of different countries, regions, towns, districts. They all may be chosen according to the connotation with attractiveness of those places (associations with rest, hustle-bustle life, pleasant climate). They create positive reception of article units with such B-integrants as Fidgy (I), Rio Glow (II), Granada (II), Cashmere Mist (I), Down Town (II), Santo Domingo (II). Naming synergy happens when different toponymes are combined with one and the same B-integrant (Cuba Coparabane (II), Cuba Hollywood (II), Cuba New York (II), Cuba Las Vegas (II)).

Introduction of a mythical toponyme Eden (I) has the association with Garden of Eden, Elysium, Paradise. Appellative naming register is an unlimited source for farming B-integrants of perfume names. There are 301, and according to the market segments they are divided into 102 (1), 98 (II), 51 (III). Lexical units from the naming register involved for creating B-integrants are separated into some lexico-semantic groups. If the appellative lexico-semantic scale is built up there is the nearest group to the antroponymic group of B-integrants. This group grasps social realities including gender (Woman (I)), social status and titles (Princess (II), Gentleman (I), Keller Queen (II), Lady Million (I)), social relations (Best Friends Forever (II)). The next one is a lexico-semantic group indicating psycho-emotional state (Guardians of Love (II), Lovely (II), Love and Glamour (I), Thinking of Love (II), Love Portion (II), Animale Love (II), Love Pulse (III), Obsession (II), Passion (I), Hypnose (II), Beyonce Heart Rush (II), Fantasy (I)). The third logically connected lexico-semantic group of irreal world phenomena has specific meaning (Angel (II), Mirade (II), Mirade so Magic! (I), Alien (II)). The fourth lexico-sementic group contains the intellectual-creative power and activity, in different branches of art (Jazz (I), Romance (I), the Beat (I), Slow Dance (II), Passion Dance (III), Poeme (II)), fashion activity (Design (I), Little Black dress (III)), travelling and sport (Journey (II), 212 Surf (I), 90210 Sport (II)), appreciation of phenomena and situations (Beautiful (I), Original (II), Just Precious (II), Lucky You (II), Lucky Darling (II), Incognito (I), Curious (I)). The fifth lexico-semantic group contains lexical units of substantional origin. Objects of real world contain substances of different physical - chemical nature. Within this group there are some lexico-semantic subgroups of different substance nature, such as precious stones and metals: Euphoria Liquid Gold (II), My Gold (II), Precious Gold (II), Rare Gold (III), White Diamonds (I), Rare Pearls (III), Rare Sapphires (III)). There is a sub-group of textile names (Organza (I), Satine (II), Oriental Lace (II)), active substances (Poison (I), Pure Poison (I) Hypnotic Poison (I), Opium (II), Elixir (II)). Colour is a definite characteristic of any substance. It is represented in the sixth group (Red (I), My Red (II), Black Xs (I), Light Blue (I)). The seventh lexico-semantic group contains a substantial layer of botanical terminology (Black Orchid (II), English Fern (II), Private Collection Jasmine White Moss (I), Elisabethan Rose (II), Orange Blossom (II), Body Fantasies Signature Japanese Cherry Blossom (II)). The eighth group of zoonymes is remarkable too (Tigress Captivates (I), Cube Jungle Tiger (II), Angry Birds Rio (II)). The group of temporal segmentation creates the ninth lexico - semantic group, there are such types of segmentation as day, season (Today Tomorrow Forever (III), Fantasy Midnight (I), 212 Summer Eternity Night (II), Eternity Moment (II)).

Naming synergy occurs when words belonging to different lexico-semantic groups are combined within one and the same B-integrant. It causes some difficulty in classifying B-integrants. The key word is significant and defines the belonging of B-integrant to the definite lexico-semantic group. For example, Flower party by Night (I) belongs to the lexico-semantic group of temporal segmentation because Night is a keyword. Midnight Romance (I) belongs to the lexico-semantic group of intellectual activity as the last element is a keyword. Appellative subcorpus of perfume and cosmetic goods is divided into nine lexico-semantic groups. The first four are connected with persons and their social activity, the last five are connected with realities of surroundings. The corpus of perfume B-integrants contain 168 borrowings. They are distributed between three traditional market segments (Table 3): 85 (I), 56 (II), 25 (III). Antroponymes are not included into the borrowing subcorpus. B-integrants of the third segment are not numerous. Maybe, consumers of these goods don't know foreign languages on the sufficient level (mostly the French language) according to their educational degree. B-integrants of the first segment contain the highest number of borrowings according to the high educational level of consumers. France, the leading country in producing perfumes, introduced its native language for goods naming. French lexical units of appellative origin are grouped into lexico-semantic groups of social realities: Femme (II), Pour Femme (I), Pour Homme (I), L'Homme (I), L'Homme Libere (I), there is a lexico-semantic group of emotional state: Amor Amor (I), Magie Noire (II), JAdore (I). There is a lexico-semantic group connected with irreal phenomena (Angel or Demon (I)), creative activity (Hot Couture (I)), group of substances (Omnia Amethyste (I), Belle D'Opium (I)), botanical terminology (Mon Jasmin Noir (I), Jasmin Noire (I), Le Jasmin (I), Dahlia Noir (I), Fleur D'Intendit (I)), toponymes and their derivatives (Champs Elysees (I), Parrisienne (I)). The borrowings of Italian original are rather frequent (Acqua Allegoria Flora Rosa (I), Dolce Vita (I), Acqua Delle Terre Rosse (I), Gelsomino Nobile (II), Acqua Di Parma Rosse Nobile (II)). B-integrants-borrowings are traditional for the first and partly second market segments and they demonstrate their semantics to consumers who know foreign languages or have high level of knowledge. These B-integrants function as cultural indicators of corresponding countries. Artificially created words are used for creating B-integrants.

They are results of naming activity initiated by producers or market(ing) demand. There are some B-integrants created on the background of sound imitation: Purr (II) - imitation of cat's hissing, Meow (II) - cat's voice. B-integrant Lancome has an history of creation. Armand Petitjean established this company in 1935 year. One of his companion put forward «Lancosme», where «s» is mute. It was a castle name in district Loiret. The name was adopted with some modifications. Symbol circumflex was used over «o» instead of mute «s». B-integrant L'Oreal was created artificially by the founder Eugene Schueler who invented hair dye in 1907 year. Artificially created words have very specific ways of creation which is different from traditional ways of word formation.

Corpus of eau de toilette goods names includes 371 units (Table 3). There are 52 antroponymes. The first segment contains 30 names, the third segment has 22 names. There are 44 toponymes, and the first segment contains 15 names, the third segment contains 29 names. There are 199 appellatives. They are divided between three segments: 50 (I), 61 (II), 38 (III). Borrowings create the subcorpus of 126 names. They are distributed between three segments (77 (I), 39 (II), 10 (III)). Only one B-integrant is formed with one artificially created word (O de Lancome (II)). Naming corpus of eau de cologne contains 303 units. There are no article units belonging to the third market segment. There are no artificially created words. There are 225 antroponymes. They are distributed between two segments (130 (I), 95 (II)). Toponymes form 19 units (2 (I), 17 (II)). Appellatives create 21 article units. They are distributed between two segments (10 (I), 11 (II)). Traditional borrowings form 38 B-integrants and they are into two segments (20 (I), 18 (II)). Antroponymes are used here in the same way as in the case of perfumes (Pierre Cardin (I), Adidas Noves 001 (II), Lauder Intuition for men (I)). Toponymes are involved there too (Berlin Play boy (I), Royal Copenhagen (II)). But the toponyme Paris is not involved at all. Appellations are separated into nine lexico-semantic groups, but they demonstrate features of latent masculinity. It indicates that eau de cologne is an article unit for men. In the lexico-semantic group of social realities features of masculinity are represented in explicit way (Gentleman (I), Tribute for Men (II), Bod Man Fresh Guy (II), Bod Man Warror (II), Halloween Man Rock one (II)). Lexico-semantic group of psychoemotional state represents masculinity in implicit way (Fierce (II), Euphoria (II)). Masculinity is not represented in the semantic group of irreal world phenomena (Angel (II), Alien (II)), but the same features are very well represented in the lexico-semantic group of creative activity (Mustang Sport (I), Road Runner (II), Surf (I)). In some degree masculinity is represented in the substantional lexico-semantic group (Rocky Man Silver (II)), colour group (Polo

Blue (II)), botanical terminology (Cigar Black Wood (I)), zoonymes (Stallion (II), Golden Cougar (II)). Masculinity is represented in B-integrants-borrowing where lexical units borrowed mostly from French are used as components of B-integrants (Hypnose Homme Cologne (II), Anthracite Pour L'Homme (II), Aqua Pour Homme (I), Invictus (I), L'Homme (I), La Nuit De L'Homme (I)). There is a unique borrowing from the German language that was later transformed into French variant eau de Cologne (№4711 Kolnisch wasser (II)). Masculinity is represented combining antroponymes and appellatives (Bulgari Man in Black (I), Lauder for Men (I), Rochas Man (I), Versace Eros (I), Versace Man (I), Versace L'Homme (I), Versace pour Homme (I)). Appellatives, components of B-integrants, are lexemes with definite masculine semantics (man, men, homme). Research of cosmetic or make-up of B-integrants has been provided in the same way as olfactory goods. All these results are given in Table 2, Table 3. The general tendency is intensive usage of appellative lexics. It correlates with usual tendency which has been traced in naming corpus. There is a steady expansion of coloration terminology usage, and it corresponds to the optical properties of make-up goods and their masking, colouring usage. Anthroponymes are less frequent and appellative are more frequent. It means that usual tendencies have become more intensive. Artificially created words have not occurred. Toponymes are very rare here too. Anthroponymes and borrowings have not been used for the III segment goods.

Conclusion. Corpus of perfume and cosmetic goods names has been undergone the process of parametrization. This process is recognized as a detailed description of article units and their names. Parametrization has revealed multiaspective nature of goods names grasping naming aspect and information aspect. Goods names demonstrate multistructural nature from the initial, smallest naming units to the biggest structures. The lowest naming level is represented with a set of four (A-brand, B-basic, C-genitive, D-functional-descriptive) integrants. Combining and functioning together these four integrants create an integrator. The set of integrators form the huge corpus of article unit names.

Parametrization may be recognized as the mutual relation of quality and quantity parameters. The first stage of quality parametrization includes the selection of integrators which are separated into two subcorpora: olfactory and colouring goods. The selection was realized in two stages. At first there were separated 54 article unit types, later after corpus reduction 13 article unit types were left for more precise and accurate research. This level of investigation outlines mostly extralinguistic parametrization which prepares the selected corpus for linguistic level research. Here naming devices used for creating B-basic (individual) integrants are distinguished (words, phrases, sentences) and distributed between 13 types goods names. Naming register includes anthroponymes, toponymes, appellatives, borrowings, artificially created words. Its distribution between 13 types of goods names and three segments of market indicates the last step of parametrization. Corpus of perfume and cosmetic goods names is investigated using a set of parameters. They demonstrate complex nature of naming units which function as the combination of article units, naming integrators, naming integrants, naming corpus.

Table 1. Discrimination of goods types in the corpus of naming integrators

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